Архив метки: Pamir

The peaks of Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels from the South. Approaches and base camp.

Photo report of the Club’s team of «AGBA» about the expedition in Shadra ridge with a visit to the base camp under the peaks of Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels.

 

Task — familiarity with the district, exploration roads, trails, sites for camps. Contacts with the local population, providing services of guest houses and the delivery of goods to base camp.

 

Team: Sharipov, Anatoly — Director, chef, photographer, communication. Maryam Sharipova — driver.

 

Automotive part was held in the following paragraphs. Dushanbe, Khorog, kalaihumb, Ishkashim, Vrang, Langar lane, Khargush, Bulunkul, Yashilkul, Dzhelandy, Khorog, Dushanbe (Pamir the small ring).

 

The pedestrian part. Langar, base camp(3967м) peak Engels, Wrang, Iniv, base camp(3870 m) peak of Karl Marx.

 

The tasks carried out.

 

Dear fellow hikers-climbers, just travelers!

 

IMG_7633
Garage No. 21 Start 24 June 2016.
IMG_7643
The gates of the city of Kulyab.
IMG_7656
Waterfall . Highway M 41.
IMG_7819
Rubob.
IMG_7661
Darvaz. The Gate Of The Pamir.
IMG_7666
Highway M 41.
IMG_7668
Highway M 41.
IMG_7697
Highway M 41.
IMG_7703
Highway M 41.
IMG_7707
Highway M 41.
IMG_7714
Highway M 41.
IMG_7722
Highway M 41.
IMG_7753
Highway M 41.
IMG_7759
Highway M 41.
IMG_7762
Highway M 41.
IMG_7796
Holiday «Vahdat» (Day of reconciliation) Khorog.
IMG_7802
Holiday «Vahdat» (Day of reconciliation) Khorog.
IMG_7821
Классический памирский интерьер.
IMG_7826
Beauty gathered on the holiday.
IMG_7844
Ishkashim travel.
IMG_7861
Ishkashim –Langar.
IMG_7870
Ishkashim –Langar.
IMG_7897
Ishkashim –Langar.
IMG_7899
Ishkashim -Langar.The source of mineral water.
IMG_7950
Guest house. Yadgar. Langar.
IMG_7953
Guest house. Yadgar. Langar.
IMG_7966
Guest house. Yadgar. Langar.
IMG_7978
Langar.The petroglyphs.
IMG_8000
Langar.The petroglyphs.
IMG_8009
Langar.The petroglyphs.
IMG_8012
Drovers of donkeys.
IMG_8022
Base camp under the southern slopes of the peak Engels.
IMG_8045
The Afghan pressure cooker, an essential thing in high-altitude base camp.
IMG_8065
Work in the kitchen.
IMG_8074
And on the horizon the Hindu Kush
IMG_8079
At night the wolves feasted
IMG_8088
Engels peak.
IMG_8109
Engels peak.
IMG_8127
Engels peak.
IMG_8129
The mountains of the peak district Engels
IMG_8198
The mountains of the peak district Engels
IMG_8294
The mountains of the peak district Engels
IMG_8344
The mountains of the peak district Engels
IMG_8132
The mountain flowers.
IMG_8272
The mountain flowers.
IMG_8279
The mountain flowers.
IMG_8284
The mountain flowers.
IMG_8704
The mountain flowers.
IMG_8187
Madina. Strong personality.
IMG_8238
The lake in the vicinity of the base camp.
IMG_8264
The lake in the vicinity of the base camp.
IMG_8280
The lake in the vicinity of the base camp.
IMG_8244
Meadow and base camp under the peak of Engels.
IMG_8273
Meadow and base camp under the peak of Engels.
IMG_8309
Pass (4750 m).
IMG_8324
Pass (4750 m).
IMG_8361
At the peak of Engels bad weather.
IMG_8443
At the peak of Engels bad weather.
IMG_8425
Girls from the summer pastures.
IMG_8426
Girls from the summer pastures.
IMG_8434
Girls from the summer pastures.
IMG_8662
Girls from the summer pastures.
IMG_8535
The Village Inew.
IMG_8536
The Village Inew.
IMG_8548
The Hindu Kush
IMG_8632
The Hindu Kush
IMG_8557
The valley of the river Panj.Wrang.
IMG_8562
In base camp under the peak of Karl Marx.
IMG_8571
In base camp under the peak of Karl Marx.
IMG_8584
In base camp under the peak of Karl Marx.
IMG_8605
In base camp under the peak of Karl Marx.
IMG_8590
I The first time Karl Marx peak, we saw this.
IMG_8613
Karl Marx peak to the South.
IMG_8708
Karl Marx peak to the South.
IMG_8782
Karl Marx peak to the South.
IMG_8667
Edelweiss.
IMG_8678
A sacred place.
IMG_8690
Teresken.
IMG_8744
Room. Summer pasture.
IMG_8733
People from the summer pastures.
IMG_8770
People from the summer pastures.
IMG_8772
People from the summer pastures.
IMG_8737
People from the summer pastures. Bek.
IMG_8738
People from the summer pastures.
IMG_8739
People from the summer pastures.
IMG_8773
People from the summer pastures.
IMG_8740
People from the summer pastures.
IMG_8752
Evening riding on a donkey.
IMG_8763
Evening riding on a donkey.
IMG_8780
Evening meeting.The plans for tomorrow.
IMG_8797
The Pamir path.
IMG_8813
The Wakhan people.
IMG_8815
The Wakhan people.
IMG_8817
The Wakhan people. Zarbash.
IMG_8823
The Wakhan people. Bahtovar.
IMG_8827
The Wakhan people. Nazri.
IMG_8858
To the East.
IMG_8889
The Afghan Bank of the river Pamir.
IMG_8892
On the Khargush pass.
IMG_8899
Khargush Pass.4344 M.
IMG_8908
The lake.Khargush Pass.4344 M.
IMG_8914
Bulunkul.
IMG_8915
Bulunkul.
IMG_8916
Bulunkul.
IMG_8917
Bulunkul.
IMG_8925
Bulunkul.
IMG_8927
Bulunkul.
IMG_8929
Bulunkul.
IMG_8943
Bulunkul.
IMG_8944
Bulunkul.
IMG_8953
Bulunkul.
IMG_8963
Yashilkul.
IMG_8969
Yashilkul.
IMG_9162
Alichur.
IMG_9165
On the way home.
IMG_9167
On the way home.
IMG_9179
On the way home.
IMG_9210
On the way home.
IMG_9354
On the way home.
IMG_9361
The last day of the trip.17.07.2016.

Anyone interested who wants to visit the area. I am pleased to share the information collected.

foto. Sharipov.A.

Kisldangi

4 South Alichur ridge is situated on the South of Pamir, on the left share of the river Alichur. The total length is about 150km. The river adjoins 3 km to Sharhdarian ridge. The highest pick is Kisildangr mountain (5706m). Significant spurs adjoin to Bakchigir ridge (35km) and to Bachor ridge (25km). The slope is covered with highland desert plans. There is a nival (relating to regions of perpetual snow). Landscape on the altitude 4200-4500m. Snow line on the north is on the altitude 4900-5150m, on the south-4900-5300m. Total area of glaciers is 68 square km. There areabout to passes with automobile lines and routes in this ridge and in its spurs. Main route of camping lies from north (Pamir track), from South (Pamir Valley).

Kisldangi Mountain.

We climbed from the north side of koiytezek pass. One can drive to the mountain. The simplest route is through south ridge. The route is not difficult 2a-2b, snowy glacier. It will take one luminary day. Splendid sight of Eastern Pamir, Shakhdarian ridge is seen from the pick.                  SAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERASAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERASAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERASAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERASAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERASAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERASAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERADSC02589DSC02582DSC02580DSC02578DSC02573DSC02572DSC02571DSC02568

Granite Paradise

The year has already coming to an end, but I have some obligations. I need to tell something. It happened in August. I have been suggested to work as a consultant in the project “Consultancy for a feasibility study for the Pamir mountaineering and climbing school (PMCS) Khorog, Tajikistan”. The general opinion of the project is positive. We could admire communicating with people, and there are a lot of mountains and prospects. Our club did its best to use as much benefit of the trip as we could. First of all we have got acquainted with the fellow travelers from Pamir Alpine Club. We climbed up the high rocks, and I believe it will be the first step to close relations between our clubs and establishing friendship. On the other hand, it’s useful to say some words about annual music festival « The roof of the world», usually held in Khorog at the beginning of August. Three days of music and dances, a great deal of guests from all over the world brought too much impression. One could admire grandeur and magnificence of Pamir Mountains and rocks . Everyone has its own idea of paradise, but rock climbers have quite different opinion. To my mind there are few trees in their paradise, there are only steep rocks and may be beautiful hourlies waiting for them… We have visited such place in Pamir Mountains that can be called “Granite Paradise”. The first rock climbing wall we had climbed is called Tang after the name of small village Tang (narrow) its situated at the distance 37o3748.12”N 71o45’44.32”. The history of discovering this rock climbing wall is as following: American rock climber Bo White came here with rock drill and screws in…? But as for me, I had climbed up those rocks in 1987-88s when I had been working at the construction of Pamir power station. At the result we had seen several routes of the stations provided with necessary equipment for upper protection (insurance) of complexity from 4 to 7+ UIAA, being not very long, 20m each of them. There are granite rocks, convenient cracks for stoppers and kamalots, short trad routes with reliable statins. There is also one light route (50m) fully perforated by screws (4-5 UIAA). It is very pictures and admirable. Besides, there are three routes of 5-6 categories at the distance 37o38’5.27”N 71o45’19.28”E in this area per one hour strolling along the road which were marked by our friend YvoWeidmann who noted the stations and complicated districts perforated by screws as it is shown at the picture. There are also a lot of rubbles for bouldering on the large glade stretching along the massif. The next object is situated in the region of the village Bogev. The distance of this route is one rope length long. But this route is unique on the territory of Tajikistan. It is perforated by screws and its complexity reaches the 8th category in accordance with UIAA. 37o31’32.86”N”C 71o40’2, 31”E. it took us one day to climb half way of route, but it was very steep. We decided to visit it once more. As I have already mentioned, we have plenty of perspectives in future. On the whole there are a lot of rocks along the road and on the banks of the rivers Gunt and Shakhdarya as well as just in the yards of people. We also saw many beautiful hourlies at the music festival Generally speaking we have attended real granite paradise, unforgettable reminiscences! At the end of my description I want to express my gratitude to my project colleagues: to the director (manager) of Pamir Alpine ClubSaidrahmonovSharafand all his fellow travel ers from PAC for their hospitality and friendship to Judith Kloiber for best example of his efficient capacity for work, to TomislavDunderovich for giving us the opportunity to adopt European experience of climbing style.

Anatoly Sharipov, better known as Tolik

0 1Tang 2Tang 3Tang 4Tang 5Tang 6Tang 7Tang 8Tang 9Tang 10Tang 11Tang 12Tang 13Tang 14Tang 16Tang 17 bosch restaurant 18Festival 19Festival 20Festival 21Festival 22Festival 23Festival 24Festival 25Festival 26Festival 27Festival 28Festival 29Festival 30Festival 31Festival 32Festival 33 34 35 36Bogev 37Bogev 38Bogev 39Bogev 40Bogev 41Bogev 42Bogev 43Bogev 44Bogev 45Bogev 46Bogev 47Tang 48Tang 49Tang 50Tang 51Tang 52Tang 53Tang 54Tang 55Tang 56Tang 57Tang 58Tang 59Tang 60Tang 61Tang 62Tang 63Tang 64Tang 65Tang 66Tang 67Tang 69Tang 70

topo_overview_tang_gunt