Архив рубрики: Rock-climbing

Чемпионат Центральной Азии по спортивному лазанию. Город Бишкек 10- 13 декабря 2015 года.

Мероприятие состоялось. Мы приняли участие в международных соревнованиях. Результаты в итоговых протоколах ниже. В первую очередь большое спасибо принимающей стороне, Федерации Альпинизма Скалолазания и Ледолазания Республики Кыргызстан ,за отличную организацию и вообще, за то что они это делают. Для нас эта поездка имеет огромную ценность. Главное это конечно соревновательный опыт и понимание того к чему надо стремится. Также большое количество чисто технических деталей, характерных для спортивного лазания, которые мы увидели в живую в первый раз. Знакомство с увлечёнными людьми,  двигающими скалолазание вперёд, тренерами, организаторами, выдающимися спортсменами. Итак ,первый шаг сделан, будем готовить следующий, и надеемся он будет более уверенный.

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Granite Paradise

The year has already coming to an end, but I have some obligations. I need to tell something. It happened in August. I have been suggested to work as a consultant in the project “Consultancy for a feasibility study for the Pamir mountaineering and climbing school (PMCS) Khorog, Tajikistan”. The general opinion of the project is positive. We could admire communicating with people, and there are a lot of mountains and prospects. Our club did its best to use as much benefit of the trip as we could. First of all we have got acquainted with the fellow travelers from Pamir Alpine Club. We climbed up the high rocks, and I believe it will be the first step to close relations between our clubs and establishing friendship. On the other hand, it’s useful to say some words about annual music festival « The roof of the world», usually held in Khorog at the beginning of August. Three days of music and dances, a great deal of guests from all over the world brought too much impression. One could admire grandeur and magnificence of Pamir Mountains and rocks . Everyone has its own idea of paradise, but rock climbers have quite different opinion. To my mind there are few trees in their paradise, there are only steep rocks and may be beautiful hourlies waiting for them… We have visited such place in Pamir Mountains that can be called “Granite Paradise”. The first rock climbing wall we had climbed is called Tang after the name of small village Tang (narrow) its situated at the distance 37o3748.12”N 71o45’44.32”. The history of discovering this rock climbing wall is as following: American rock climber Bo White came here with rock drill and screws in…? But as for me, I had climbed up those rocks in 1987-88s when I had been working at the construction of Pamir power station. At the result we had seen several routes of the stations provided with necessary equipment for upper protection (insurance) of complexity from 4 to 7+ UIAA, being not very long, 20m each of them. There are granite rocks, convenient cracks for stoppers and kamalots, short trad routes with reliable statins. There is also one light route (50m) fully perforated by screws (4-5 UIAA). It is very pictures and admirable. Besides, there are three routes of 5-6 categories at the distance 37o38’5.27”N 71o45’19.28”E in this area per one hour strolling along the road which were marked by our friend YvoWeidmann who noted the stations and complicated districts perforated by screws as it is shown at the picture. There are also a lot of rubbles for bouldering on the large glade stretching along the massif. The next object is situated in the region of the village Bogev. The distance of this route is one rope length long. But this route is unique on the territory of Tajikistan. It is perforated by screws and its complexity reaches the 8th category in accordance with UIAA. 37o31’32.86”N”C 71o40’2, 31”E. it took us one day to climb half way of route, but it was very steep. We decided to visit it once more. As I have already mentioned, we have plenty of perspectives in future. On the whole there are a lot of rocks along the road and on the banks of the rivers Gunt and Shakhdarya as well as just in the yards of people. We also saw many beautiful hourlies at the music festival Generally speaking we have attended real granite paradise, unforgettable reminiscences! At the end of my description I want to express my gratitude to my project colleagues: to the director (manager) of Pamir Alpine ClubSaidrahmonovSharafand all his fellow travel ers from PAC for their hospitality and friendship to Judith Kloiber for best example of his efficient capacity for work, to TomislavDunderovich for giving us the opportunity to adopt European experience of climbing style.

Anatoly Sharipov, better known as Tolik

0 1Tang 2Tang 3Tang 4Tang 5Tang 6Tang 7Tang 8Tang 9Tang 10Tang 11Tang 12Tang 13Tang 14Tang 16Tang 17 bosch restaurant 18Festival 19Festival 20Festival 21Festival 22Festival 23Festival 24Festival 25Festival 26Festival 27Festival 28Festival 29Festival 30Festival 31Festival 32Festival 33 34 35 36Bogev 37Bogev 38Bogev 39Bogev 40Bogev 41Bogev 42Bogev 43Bogev 44Bogev 45Bogev 46Bogev 47Tang 48Tang 49Tang 50Tang 51Tang 52Tang 53Tang 54Tang 55Tang 56Tang 57Tang 58Tang 59Tang 60Tang 61Tang 62Tang 63Tang 64Tang 65Tang 66Tang 67Tang 69Tang 70


Скалодром 19 километр «Евроремонт»

Давно это сделано (презентация была в июне), но лучше поздно чем никогда. Представляем вашему вниманию обновления произошедшие на скалодроме 19 км. А именно маршруты оборудованные постоянными точками страховки. Товарищи таджики, а также любители и ценители таджикских гор: теперь и у нас есть скалы оборудованные европейским специалистом Иво Вейдманом (Yvo Weidmann), согласно европейским стандартам! Дело за малым — найти скалолазов!

Итак, маршруты: Dependance Day, Pillar, Sandstand, Lazzy Sunday. Маршруты названы так самим  Иво, думаем, на это он имеет полное право.

1 topo_overview_adlerhorst_varzob
1 topo_overview_adlerhorst_varzob

2 topo_overview_alplager_varzob
2 topo_overview_alplager_varzob

3 Topo_NiceTryTryHarder_Sioma
3 Topo_NiceTryTryHarder_Sioma

условн. обозн

Кроме скал на 19-м километре Иво также постарался и на скалах Сиомы и Альплагеря.


School of rock climbing

Dear fellow citizens and guests of Tajikistan. Public organization ««Republican Mountain-Sports Club «Akhba»» «» presents a new project. «School of rock climbingThe essence of it is to offer the tourist market of Tajikistan new productclimbing routes, with pre-points and intermediate points of insurance.. As we previously reported (19 km Climbing wall «Renovation» and Mirror. New camp, new routes), in Varzob gorge (near Dushanbe) by foreign experts, and with the participation of members of our club prepared 5 climbing areas. We want to offer you, depending on your experience, any option, from full support to your chosen route, including equipment hire, to a simple consultation. And of course, no one can stop you, if you have enough skill to use these routes independently.

So , Rahim, Roma, and Maryam offers the following programs in principle from the simple to the complex:

rock Mirror
rock Mirror 38°42’30.37″N 68°47’59.93″E

Rock bottom mirror
Rock bottom mirror 38°42’33.32″N 68°47’40.43″E

19 km Varzob
19 km Varzob 38°43’28.17″N 68°47’23.92″E






53 ал Варзоб1

1.Dependance Day 1.Ahba ScoobyDoo Juno (2) ScoobyDoo (2) Sandstand1 Sandstand Pillar1 Pillar Juno Dependance Day1 Dependance Day1EasyPeacy2EasyPeacy3.Dependance Day9.Mizhgon

alplager varzob
alplager varzob 38°58’29.51″N 68°46’3.08″E


3 Topo_NiceTryTryHarder_Sioma
3 Topo_NiceTryTryHarder_Sioma 38°57’57.88″N 68°43’14.15″E