Архив метки: mountaineering

International Mountaineering Expedition.Wakhan -alp.tj 2019.

International Mountaineering Expedition.Wakhan -alp.tj 2019.

Time of July-September 2019.

Venue Ishkashim district of GBAO. South-Western Pamir, Shahdara Range.

Tasks. Climbing the peaks of the Shakhdara Range. The peaks of Karl Marx  6723 m, Engels  6510 m,  Mayakovsky  6096 m. All ascents are planned to start from the Wakhan Valley.

The participants. We invite Tajik and foreign climbers to participate.

For more information and participation in the expedition, please write to our address: turakademia@gmail.com

Mountain climbing «Karl Marx peak»

10.08.2018. Team climbers Club «AGBA» in the composition of the

  1. Anatoly Sharipov head of the ascent.
  2. Simon Krylov.Climber.
  3. Vali Inoyatov Climber.
  4. Robert John Climber.                                                                                               Made the ascent to the mountain «PIK Karl Marx» (6700) on the West ridge (route of Ntmscverize) 4B grade of difficulty .                                                                                                                             00001 0001 001 01Adventures in the Pamirs are always diverse, and mountaineering, of course, is the basis of our expeditions, but he can not always argue with the power of random impressions and circumstances. It all started very difficult. After all, or after the main adventure, a trip along the Pamir highway, 800 km, 32 hours on the road(car breakdowns, posts, unplanned stops) we arrived in Wrang (Ishkashim district of GBAO).1 2 3 4 5 20Wrang is a very beautiful place, inhabited by nice people. We have a lot of friends there, and there are always people who sincerely want to help. But this people, and here is animals. In one word, when are we all prepared to leave and were ready to go to the mountains, we escaped from the donkey. We ourselves were not ready to carry the entire load to camp 3800 had to delay the start by one day. We decided to explore the Buddhist temple and the surrounding area.6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19We are of course not for the first time. Therefore, not limited to surface inspection. Decided to explore the home of monks of the monastery from the inside. About the construction of the dwellings themselves. To dig such a cave is not difficult. Rock conglomerate, medium-sized boulders in Sandstone. Vykovyrivat easy, you need some type of tool, and let’s pick a hut, can be folded and the outer wall of the removed stones. Throw the surplus down. You can build, but how to live? This I do not know. Mountains without forests, on the banks of the river so shrubs, no firewood, and the winter is not warm. Ah, perhaps, on the they and the monks to tolerate.It’s okay, we had time. And the donkey can be understood, to have fun with friends in the neighboring village or to drag bauls uphill, and what would you choose? It would not be nice to climb monks in the monastery and to swim in the border river, but we had to start. With a delay of one day we went to the first camp 3800. Camp 3800 is located in a very beautiful place, bushes green lawns, only the roar from the waterfalls and glacial streams, which you hear constantly, reminds you that you are already in the highlands. Acclimatization began here.Acclimatization is a serious thing, it is important not to overestimate your strength. We used a tactic called «saw teeth». The meaning of this tactic is that, organizing another high-altitude camp, the first time we go up there only to visit, bring food, equipment, fuel, but do not spend the night, go down to spend the night in the previous camp. This tactic always gives a good result, we almost » ill » once in the camp 5300, and then everything was without problems and in the camp 5900(assault), and above on the mountain we felt quite tolerable. So, we gradually organized four camps on the mountain. 1-3800, 2-4300, 3-5300, 4-5900.21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30
    Camp 3800
    44 1
    Camp 4300

    33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 1 42 43 1 43 45 1 45 46 47 48 1 48 49

    Route itself. We are not the first time on this mountain, so we had the experience and the opportunity to make an analysis and choose the right path.

    65

    What’s ‘correct’? The book » school of mountaineering «has a Chapter called»the Beauty and logic of the climbing route.» In this Chapter, much of the focus is on ridge routes, and what it says is, » on the crest, there is little chance of going astray: the General and detailed orientation is relatively simple. There are unlikely to rock falls and avalanches, snow cornices are clearly visible, therefore, less opportunity to get into a dangerous situation. Paths along the ridges have the least steepness, technical difficulties on them are minimal for this mountain. To climb the ridge is interesting — a good overview, the world opens widely, terrain and work on it a variety. Ridge routes attract climbers with a combination of logic, optimality and beauty». Here we chose the route of «Nemsveridze» pass Nishar on the West ridge 4B grade of difficulty. In General, many routes have been laid on this Mountain, mainly along the Northern wall, complex sports lines, all of them were laid during the Soviet times and exhibited at the Union Championships ( a separate topic).

    60
    Camp 5300

    50 51 52 53 54 55 61 62

    ????????????????????????????????????
    ????????????????????????????????????

    64

    But I want to stay on one «route» on the South –Western slope. This route is often used recently, which is a sin to conceal and we were last year there jerked, well enough mind to turn back. With all the super, simple way. But head over to the long snow slopes with them sticking out of the seracs ready to shoot at any moment the ice collapse or just an avalanche, which is not even audible, a large number of cracks, in the afternoon, the whole soft slope on the sun and becomes even more dangerous. This route still will show themselves (well, if not corpses).

    66 67 68

    Let’s return to our route. The beginning of the ice wall of about 40 meters and then traverse another ice wall of 60 meters and then traverse again and 5900 camp, after camp road on the ridge, a couple of difficult ice knives, bypass the gendarme and the outlet to the top of the summit tower, a small 35-40 meters bypassing the tower on the right on the shelf and coming out on top. For insurance used ice screws (mostly did eyelets on the descent). Along the ridge there are often traces of those who’ve been here before, sites for tents and other small items.

    69 70 71

    One finding struck us with its tragedy. Torn tent «Pamirka» tin can with carefully Packed cigarettes and Primus «bumblebee» which has a release date of 1979. It looks like someone’s gone one way. Perhaps, who knows, what’s the matter? I would be grateful for the information.

    Top. The top is the place where all the paths lead only down. A bronze bust of Marx made in ‘ 69. A plaque with a quote calling to change the world. Five flags on bamboo sticks left by the Iranian expedition were found on the top. Also a package of chocolates with a sticker of the Polish club(www.skpb.lodz.pl ), they came up here in 17 year. Everything is in excellent condition, on top there is no much snow, it takes a strong wind that blows constantly, because the height of almost 7 km. Descent on the way up. The descent of the difficulties is not. Climbing from camp 5900 started at 6 am to the top came out at 15 o’clock, the camp at 5900 returned with lanterns at 21 o’clock, the result of «walking» 15 hours. I don’t know if this world has changed while we were walking on the Mountain, but we have changed a lot, it is always so. Mountain she always makes us better, for this and mountaineering!

    Camp 5900

    73 74 75

    ????????????????????????????????????
    ????????????????????????????????????

    77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85

    ????????????????????????????????????
    ????????????????????????????????????

    87

    ????????????????????????????????????
    ????????????????????????????????????

    89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101

Climbing the mountain «PIK Karl Marx» 6700м «

In honor of the year of tourism development and traditional national crafts in Tajikistan.

Без названия

Social organization of Mountain sports Club «AGBA» in the summer of 2018 plans to hold mountaineering expedition to Shakhadra ridge of the Pamir.
The main purpose of the expedition. Climbing the mountain «PIK Karl Marx» 6700м «route on the West ridge» 4B.
Time. Climbing season in this area lasts from July 10 to August 30. The exact dates of the expedition are to be determined.
Members of the expedition. Theoretically take part in the expedition on the rights of the member of team of «AGBA» can any citizen of Tajikistan. But in order to become a member of the team must pass preliminary training in the Club. (we therefore declare for a long time before, to have time to prepare). Foreign nationals can also take part in expeditions on terms that will be adopted in the preparation process.
To learn more about the expedition and about the possibility of your participation you can contact the Club.
E-mail; turakademia@gmail.com

The peaks of Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels from the South. Approaches and base camp.

Photo report of the Club’s team of «AGBA» about the expedition in Shadra ridge with a visit to the base camp under the peaks of Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels.

 

Task — familiarity with the district, exploration roads, trails, sites for camps. Contacts with the local population, providing services of guest houses and the delivery of goods to base camp.

 

Team: Sharipov, Anatoly — Director, chef, photographer, communication. Maryam Sharipova — driver.

 

Automotive part was held in the following paragraphs. Dushanbe, Khorog, kalaihumb, Ishkashim, Vrang, Langar lane, Khargush, Bulunkul, Yashilkul, Dzhelandy, Khorog, Dushanbe (Pamir the small ring).

 

The pedestrian part. Langar, base camp(3967м) peak Engels, Wrang, Iniv, base camp(3870 m) peak of Karl Marx.

 

The tasks carried out.

 

Dear fellow hikers-climbers, just travelers!

 

IMG_7633
Garage No. 21 Start 24 June 2016.
IMG_7643
The gates of the city of Kulyab.
IMG_7656
Waterfall . Highway M 41.
IMG_7819
Rubob.
IMG_7661
Darvaz. The Gate Of The Pamir.
IMG_7666
Highway M 41.
IMG_7668
Highway M 41.
IMG_7697
Highway M 41.
IMG_7703
Highway M 41.
IMG_7707
Highway M 41.
IMG_7714
Highway M 41.
IMG_7722
Highway M 41.
IMG_7753
Highway M 41.
IMG_7759
Highway M 41.
IMG_7762
Highway M 41.
IMG_7796
Holiday «Vahdat» (Day of reconciliation) Khorog.
IMG_7802
Holiday «Vahdat» (Day of reconciliation) Khorog.
IMG_7821
Классический памирский интерьер.
IMG_7826
Beauty gathered on the holiday.
IMG_7844
Ishkashim travel.
IMG_7861
Ishkashim –Langar.
IMG_7870
Ishkashim –Langar.
IMG_7897
Ishkashim –Langar.
IMG_7899
Ishkashim -Langar.The source of mineral water.
IMG_7950
Guest house. Yadgar. Langar.
IMG_7953
Guest house. Yadgar. Langar.
IMG_7966
Guest house. Yadgar. Langar.
IMG_7978
Langar.The petroglyphs.
IMG_8000
Langar.The petroglyphs.
IMG_8009
Langar.The petroglyphs.
IMG_8012
Drovers of donkeys.
IMG_8022
Base camp under the southern slopes of the peak Engels.
IMG_8045
The Afghan pressure cooker, an essential thing in high-altitude base camp.
IMG_8065
Work in the kitchen.
IMG_8074
And on the horizon the Hindu Kush
IMG_8079
At night the wolves feasted
IMG_8088
Engels peak.
IMG_8109
Engels peak.
IMG_8127
Engels peak.
IMG_8129
The mountains of the peak district Engels
IMG_8198
The mountains of the peak district Engels
IMG_8294
The mountains of the peak district Engels
IMG_8344
The mountains of the peak district Engels
IMG_8132
The mountain flowers.
IMG_8272
The mountain flowers.
IMG_8279
The mountain flowers.
IMG_8284
The mountain flowers.
IMG_8704
The mountain flowers.
IMG_8187
Madina. Strong personality.
IMG_8238
The lake in the vicinity of the base camp.
IMG_8264
The lake in the vicinity of the base camp.
IMG_8280
The lake in the vicinity of the base camp.
IMG_8244
Meadow and base camp under the peak of Engels.
IMG_8273
Meadow and base camp under the peak of Engels.
IMG_8309
Pass (4750 m).
IMG_8324
Pass (4750 m).
IMG_8361
At the peak of Engels bad weather.
IMG_8443
At the peak of Engels bad weather.
IMG_8425
Girls from the summer pastures.
IMG_8426
Girls from the summer pastures.
IMG_8434
Girls from the summer pastures.
IMG_8662
Girls from the summer pastures.
IMG_8535
The Village Inew.
IMG_8536
The Village Inew.
IMG_8548
The Hindu Kush
IMG_8632
The Hindu Kush
IMG_8557
The valley of the river Panj.Wrang.
IMG_8562
In base camp under the peak of Karl Marx.
IMG_8571
In base camp under the peak of Karl Marx.
IMG_8584
In base camp under the peak of Karl Marx.
IMG_8605
In base camp under the peak of Karl Marx.
IMG_8590
I The first time Karl Marx peak, we saw this.
IMG_8613
Karl Marx peak to the South.
IMG_8708
Karl Marx peak to the South.
IMG_8782
Karl Marx peak to the South.
IMG_8667
Edelweiss.
IMG_8678
A sacred place.
IMG_8690
Teresken.
IMG_8744
Room. Summer pasture.
IMG_8733
People from the summer pastures.
IMG_8770
People from the summer pastures.
IMG_8772
People from the summer pastures.
IMG_8737
People from the summer pastures. Bek.
IMG_8738
People from the summer pastures.
IMG_8739
People from the summer pastures.
IMG_8773
People from the summer pastures.
IMG_8740
People from the summer pastures.
IMG_8752
Evening riding on a donkey.
IMG_8763
Evening riding on a donkey.
IMG_8780
Evening meeting.The plans for tomorrow.
IMG_8797
The Pamir path.
IMG_8813
The Wakhan people.
IMG_8815
The Wakhan people.
IMG_8817
The Wakhan people. Zarbash.
IMG_8823
The Wakhan people. Bahtovar.
IMG_8827
The Wakhan people. Nazri.
IMG_8858
To the East.
IMG_8889
The Afghan Bank of the river Pamir.
IMG_8892
On the Khargush pass.
IMG_8899
Khargush Pass.4344 M.
IMG_8908
The lake.Khargush Pass.4344 M.
IMG_8914
Bulunkul.
IMG_8915
Bulunkul.
IMG_8916
Bulunkul.
IMG_8917
Bulunkul.
IMG_8925
Bulunkul.
IMG_8927
Bulunkul.
IMG_8929
Bulunkul.
IMG_8943
Bulunkul.
IMG_8944
Bulunkul.
IMG_8953
Bulunkul.
IMG_8963
Yashilkul.
IMG_8969
Yashilkul.
IMG_9162
Alichur.
IMG_9165
On the way home.
IMG_9167
On the way home.
IMG_9179
On the way home.
IMG_9210
On the way home.
IMG_9354
On the way home.
IMG_9361
The last day of the trip.17.07.2016.

Anyone interested who wants to visit the area. I am pleased to share the information collected.

foto. Sharipov.A.

22 февраля.Зеркало.В ожидании весны.

22 февраля состоялось мероприятие скальная тренировка.В тренировке приняло участие 9 человек спортсменов клуба «Агба» и ребята из команды Института предпринимательства и сервиса.Была тренировка для новичков и опытных спортсменов.Лазали с верхней и нижней страховкой и немного боулдеринг.IMG_2377 IMG_2381 IMG_2387 IMG_2398 IMG_2404 IMG_2420 IMG_2421 IMG_2429 IMG_2439 IMG_2441 IMG_2442 IMG_2449 IMG_2455 IMG_2462 IMG_2464 IMG_2467 IMG_2472 IMG_2475 IMG_2476 IMG_2487 IMG_2496 IMG_2499 IMG_2508 IMG_2510 IMG_2517 IMG_2519 IMG_2522 IMG_2523 IMG_2529 IMG_2531 IMG_2538 IMG_2541 IMG_2545 IMG_2562 IMG_2602 IMG_2578 IMG_2583 IMG_2590 IMG_2592 IMG_2594 IMG_2609 IMG_2615 IMG_2621 - копия

Kisldangi

4 South Alichur ridge is situated on the South of Pamir, on the left share of the river Alichur. The total length is about 150km. The river adjoins 3 km to Sharhdarian ridge. The highest pick is Kisildangr mountain (5706m). Significant spurs adjoin to Bakchigir ridge (35km) and to Bachor ridge (25km). The slope is covered with highland desert plans. There is a nival (relating to regions of perpetual snow). Landscape on the altitude 4200-4500m. Snow line on the north is on the altitude 4900-5150m, on the south-4900-5300m. Total area of glaciers is 68 square km. There areabout to passes with automobile lines and routes in this ridge and in its spurs. Main route of camping lies from north (Pamir track), from South (Pamir Valley).

Kisldangi Mountain.

We climbed from the north side of koiytezek pass. One can drive to the mountain. The simplest route is through south ridge. The route is not difficult 2a-2b, snowy glacier. It will take one luminary day. Splendid sight of Eastern Pamir, Shakhdarian ridge is seen from the pick.                  SAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERASAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERASAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERASAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERASAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERASAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERASAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERADSC02589DSC02582DSC02580DSC02578DSC02573DSC02572DSC02571DSC02568

Granite Paradise

The year has already coming to an end, but I have some obligations. I need to tell something. It happened in August. I have been suggested to work as a consultant in the project “Consultancy for a feasibility study for the Pamir mountaineering and climbing school (PMCS) Khorog, Tajikistan”. The general opinion of the project is positive. We could admire communicating with people, and there are a lot of mountains and prospects. Our club did its best to use as much benefit of the trip as we could. First of all we have got acquainted with the fellow travelers from Pamir Alpine Club. We climbed up the high rocks, and I believe it will be the first step to close relations between our clubs and establishing friendship. On the other hand, it’s useful to say some words about annual music festival « The roof of the world», usually held in Khorog at the beginning of August. Three days of music and dances, a great deal of guests from all over the world brought too much impression. One could admire grandeur and magnificence of Pamir Mountains and rocks . Everyone has its own idea of paradise, but rock climbers have quite different opinion. To my mind there are few trees in their paradise, there are only steep rocks and may be beautiful hourlies waiting for them… We have visited such place in Pamir Mountains that can be called “Granite Paradise”. The first rock climbing wall we had climbed is called Tang after the name of small village Tang (narrow) its situated at the distance 37o3748.12”N 71o45’44.32”. The history of discovering this rock climbing wall is as following: American rock climber Bo White came here with rock drill and screws in…? But as for me, I had climbed up those rocks in 1987-88s when I had been working at the construction of Pamir power station. At the result we had seen several routes of the stations provided with necessary equipment for upper protection (insurance) of complexity from 4 to 7+ UIAA, being not very long, 20m each of them. There are granite rocks, convenient cracks for stoppers and kamalots, short trad routes with reliable statins. There is also one light route (50m) fully perforated by screws (4-5 UIAA). It is very pictures and admirable. Besides, there are three routes of 5-6 categories at the distance 37o38’5.27”N 71o45’19.28”E in this area per one hour strolling along the road which were marked by our friend YvoWeidmann who noted the stations and complicated districts perforated by screws as it is shown at the picture. There are also a lot of rubbles for bouldering on the large glade stretching along the massif. The next object is situated in the region of the village Bogev. The distance of this route is one rope length long. But this route is unique on the territory of Tajikistan. It is perforated by screws and its complexity reaches the 8th category in accordance with UIAA. 37o31’32.86”N”C 71o40’2, 31”E. it took us one day to climb half way of route, but it was very steep. We decided to visit it once more. As I have already mentioned, we have plenty of perspectives in future. On the whole there are a lot of rocks along the road and on the banks of the rivers Gunt and Shakhdarya as well as just in the yards of people. We also saw many beautiful hourlies at the music festival Generally speaking we have attended real granite paradise, unforgettable reminiscences! At the end of my description I want to express my gratitude to my project colleagues: to the director (manager) of Pamir Alpine ClubSaidrahmonovSharafand all his fellow travel ers from PAC for their hospitality and friendship to Judith Kloiber for best example of his efficient capacity for work, to TomislavDunderovich for giving us the opportunity to adopt European experience of climbing style.

Anatoly Sharipov, better known as Tolik

0 1Tang 2Tang 3Tang 4Tang 5Tang 6Tang 7Tang 8Tang 9Tang 10Tang 11Tang 12Tang 13Tang 14Tang 16Tang 17 bosch restaurant 18Festival 19Festival 20Festival 21Festival 22Festival 23Festival 24Festival 25Festival 26Festival 27Festival 28Festival 29Festival 30Festival 31Festival 32Festival 33 34 35 36Bogev 37Bogev 38Bogev 39Bogev 40Bogev 41Bogev 42Bogev 43Bogev 44Bogev 45Bogev 46Bogev 47Tang 48Tang 49Tang 50Tang 51Tang 52Tang 53Tang 54Tang 55Tang 56Tang 57Tang 58Tang 59Tang 60Tang 61Tang 62Tang 63Tang 64Tang 65Tang 66Tang 67Tang 69Tang 70

topo_overview_tang_gunt

Гранитный рай

Год заканчивается, а у меня задолженность .Надо обязательно рассказать. Это было в августе.

0
1Tang
1Tang
2Tang
2Tang
3Tang
3Tang
4Tang
4Tang
5Tang
5Tang
6Tang
6Tang
7Tang
7Tang
8Tang
8Tang
9Tang
9Tang
10Tang
10Tang
11Tang
11Tang
12Tang
12Tang
13Tang
13Tang
14Tang
14Tang
16Tang
16Tang
17 bosch restaurant
17 bosch restaurant
18Festival
18Festival
19Festival
19Festival
20Festival
20Festival
21Festival
21Festival
22Festival
22Festival
23Festival
23Festival
24Festival
24Festival
25Festival
25Festival
26Festival
26Festival
27Festival
27Festival
28Festival
28Festival
29Festival
29Festival
30Festival
30Festival
31Festival
31Festival
32Festival
32Festival
36Bogev
36Bogev
37Bogev
37Bogev
38Bogev
38Bogev
39Bogev
39Bogev
40Bogev
40Bogev
35
35
41Bogev
41Bogev
42Bogev
42Bogev
43Bogev
43Bogev
44Bogev
44BogevBosch restaurant
45Bogev
45Bogev
46Bogev
46Bogev
47Tang
47Tang
48Tang
48Tang
49Tang
49Tang
50Tang
50Tang
51Tang
51Tang
52Tang
52Tang
53Tang
53Tang
54Tang
54Tang
55Tang
55Tang
56Tang
56Tang
57Tang
57Tang
58Tang
58Tang
59Tang
59Tang
60Tang
60Tang
61Tang
61Tang
62Tang
62Tang
63Tang
63Tang
64Tang
64Tang
65Tang
65Tang
66Tang
66Tang
67Tang
67Tang
69Tang
69Tang
70
70

Начнем с того что мне (Anatoly Sharipov, better known as Tolik)предложили поработать консультантом в проекте MSDSP под названием CONSULTANCY FOR A FEASIBILITY STUDY FOR THE PAMIR MOUNTAINEERING AND CLIMBING SCHOOL (PMCS) «консультации для технико-экономического обоснования памирской школы альпинизма и скалолазания (PMCS) Хорог,Таджикистан». Что можно сказать, общее впечатление от проекта позитивное – есть люди, есть горы, есть перспективы. Но мы (Клуб) постарались извлечь из возможности поехать на Памир максимум пользы. Итак первое это Люди, мы познакомились с ребятами из Памирского альпинистского клуба(PAC), вместе полазали по скалам, я думаю это станет началом хорошей дружбы между нашими клубами. Также надо упомянуть ежегодный музыкальный фестиваль «Крыша мира» который проходит в Хороге обычно в начале августа, три дня музыки и танцев, куча гостей со всего мира. Очень живописно и весело. Горы…..Памирские горы и скалы, вот тут подробнее .

«Гранитный рай». У каждого своё представление о райских садах, у скалолазов в раю я думаю деревьев очень мало, сплошные скалы, пышногрудые гурии думаю тоже присутствуют, там где то поджидают…..  в палатках. Но мы были в таком  месте которое мне захотелось назвать «Гранитный рай».Это здесь, у нас на Памире. Первый скалодром где мы лазали называется «Танг». Кишлак рядом называется Танг ну и скалодром стало быть тоже. Если быть совсем точным, то  37°37’48.12″N 71°45’44.32″E.История возникновения выглядит так. Некий Бо Вайт (Bo White) американский скалолаз ,появился в этих краях с перфоратором и болтами в ??? году. (На самом деле я лазал на этих скалах ещё в 1987-88 годах когда работал на строительстве Памир ГЭС 1) Результат который мы видели, это несколько маршрутов с оборудованными станциями для верхней страховки сложностью от 4 до 7+ UIAA все не очень длинные метров по 20. Скалы гранитные, есть длинные удобные трещины для стопперов и камалотов, т.е можно лазать короткие трэдовые маршруты заканчивающиеся надёжной станцией. Также один маршрут 50 м. полностью пробитый болтами не очень сложный 4-5 UIAA но очень живописный.Река 200 метров. Кроме того в этом же районе в часе ходьбы от дороги 37°38’5.27″N 71°45’19.28″E постарался и наш старый знакомый Иво Вейдман (YvoWeidmann). Он сделал три маршрута 5-6 категории, набиты станции и некоторые проблемные  участки пробиты болтами,что хорошо видно на рисунке. Тут же на большой поляне тянущейся вдоль всего массива очень много валунов для боулдеринга .Следующий объект находится в районе кишлака Богев ,там есть только один маршрут длинной в одну верёвку зато какой. Возможно единственный на территории Таджикистана ,пробитый болтами маршрут 8 категории сложности по UIAA. 37°31’32.86″N «С 71°40’2.31″E. Полазали, только один день. Пролезли половину. Очень круто! Думаем обязательно приехать ещё. Как я уже говорил, перспективы тоже есть. Вообще скал очень много, есть прямо у дороги, есть по берегу Гунта и Шахдары, есть даже кое у кого прямо во дворе. А на фестивале мы видели целую «дивизию» тех самых пышногрудых гурий .Одним словом гранитный рай.

В конце хочется поблагодарить коллег по проекту: Директора  PACСаидрахмонова Шарафа и всех ребят из PAC за дружбу и гостеприимство. Юдит Клойбер(Judith Kloiber) за отличный пример эффективной работоспособности. Томислава Дундеровича (Tomislav Dunderovic) за возможность перенять опыт европейского стиля восхождений.

topo_overview_tang_gunt

School of rock climbing

Dear fellow citizens and guests of Tajikistan. Public organization ««Republican Mountain-Sports Club «Akhba»» «» presents a new project. «School of rock climbingThe essence of it is to offer the tourist market of Tajikistan new productclimbing routes, with pre-points and intermediate points of insurance.. As we previously reported (19 km Climbing wall «Renovation» and Mirror. New camp, new routes), in Varzob gorge (near Dushanbe) by foreign experts, and with the participation of members of our club prepared 5 climbing areas. We want to offer you, depending on your experience, any option, from full support to your chosen route, including equipment hire, to a simple consultation. And of course, no one can stop you, if you have enough skill to use these routes independently.

So , Rahim, Roma, and Maryam offers the following programs in principle from the simple to the complex:

rock Mirror
rock Mirror 38°42’30.37″N 68°47’59.93″E
Rock bottom mirror
Rock bottom mirror 38°42’33.32″N 68°47’40.43″E
19 km Varzob
19 km Varzob 38°43’28.17″N 68°47’23.92″E

 

 

 

 

 

53 ал Варзоб1

1.Dependance Day 1.Ahba ScoobyDoo Juno (2) ScoobyDoo (2) Sandstand1 Sandstand Pillar1 Pillar Juno Dependance Day1 Dependance Day1EasyPeacy2EasyPeacy3.Dependance Day9.Mizhgon

alplager varzob
alplager varzob 38°58’29.51″N 68°46’3.08″E

 

3 Topo_NiceTryTryHarder_Sioma
3 Topo_NiceTryTryHarder_Sioma 38°57’57.88″N 68°43’14.15″E