Архив метки: Karl Marx

Mountain climbing «Karl Marx peak»

10.08.2018. Team climbers Club «AGBA» in the composition of the

  1. Anatoly Sharipov head of the ascent.
  2. Simon Krylov.Climber.
  3. Vali Inoyatov Climber.
  4. Robert John Climber.                                                                                               Made the ascent to the mountain «PIK Karl Marx» (6700) on the West ridge (route of Ntmscverize) 4B grade of difficulty .                                                                                                                             00001 0001 001 01Adventures in the Pamirs are always diverse, and mountaineering, of course, is the basis of our expeditions, but he can not always argue with the power of random impressions and circumstances. It all started very difficult. After all, or after the main adventure, a trip along the Pamir highway, 800 km, 32 hours on the road(car breakdowns, posts, unplanned stops) we arrived in Wrang (Ishkashim district of GBAO).1 2 3 4 5 20Wrang is a very beautiful place, inhabited by nice people. We have a lot of friends there, and there are always people who sincerely want to help. But this people, and here is animals. In one word, when are we all prepared to leave and were ready to go to the mountains, we escaped from the donkey. We ourselves were not ready to carry the entire load to camp 3800 had to delay the start by one day. We decided to explore the Buddhist temple and the surrounding area.6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19We are of course not for the first time. Therefore, not limited to surface inspection. Decided to explore the home of monks of the monastery from the inside. About the construction of the dwellings themselves. To dig such a cave is not difficult. Rock conglomerate, medium-sized boulders in Sandstone. Vykovyrivat easy, you need some type of tool, and let’s pick a hut, can be folded and the outer wall of the removed stones. Throw the surplus down. You can build, but how to live? This I do not know. Mountains without forests, on the banks of the river so shrubs, no firewood, and the winter is not warm. Ah, perhaps, on the they and the monks to tolerate.It’s okay, we had time. And the donkey can be understood, to have fun with friends in the neighboring village or to drag bauls uphill, and what would you choose? It would not be nice to climb monks in the monastery and to swim in the border river, but we had to start. With a delay of one day we went to the first camp 3800. Camp 3800 is located in a very beautiful place, bushes green lawns, only the roar from the waterfalls and glacial streams, which you hear constantly, reminds you that you are already in the highlands. Acclimatization began here.Acclimatization is a serious thing, it is important not to overestimate your strength. We used a tactic called «saw teeth». The meaning of this tactic is that, organizing another high-altitude camp, the first time we go up there only to visit, bring food, equipment, fuel, but do not spend the night, go down to spend the night in the previous camp. This tactic always gives a good result, we almost » ill » once in the camp 5300, and then everything was without problems and in the camp 5900(assault), and above on the mountain we felt quite tolerable. So, we gradually organized four camps on the mountain. 1-3800, 2-4300, 3-5300, 4-5900.21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30
    Camp 3800
    44 1
    Camp 4300

    33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 1 42 43 1 43 45 1 45 46 47 48 1 48 49

    Route itself. We are not the first time on this mountain, so we had the experience and the opportunity to make an analysis and choose the right path.

    65

    What’s ‘correct’? The book » school of mountaineering «has a Chapter called»the Beauty and logic of the climbing route.» In this Chapter, much of the focus is on ridge routes, and what it says is, » on the crest, there is little chance of going astray: the General and detailed orientation is relatively simple. There are unlikely to rock falls and avalanches, snow cornices are clearly visible, therefore, less opportunity to get into a dangerous situation. Paths along the ridges have the least steepness, technical difficulties on them are minimal for this mountain. To climb the ridge is interesting — a good overview, the world opens widely, terrain and work on it a variety. Ridge routes attract climbers with a combination of logic, optimality and beauty». Here we chose the route of «Nemsveridze» pass Nishar on the West ridge 4B grade of difficulty. In General, many routes have been laid on this Mountain, mainly along the Northern wall, complex sports lines, all of them were laid during the Soviet times and exhibited at the Union Championships ( a separate topic).

    60
    Camp 5300

    50 51 52 53 54 55 61 62

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    64

    But I want to stay on one «route» on the South –Western slope. This route is often used recently, which is a sin to conceal and we were last year there jerked, well enough mind to turn back. With all the super, simple way. But head over to the long snow slopes with them sticking out of the seracs ready to shoot at any moment the ice collapse or just an avalanche, which is not even audible, a large number of cracks, in the afternoon, the whole soft slope on the sun and becomes even more dangerous. This route still will show themselves (well, if not corpses).

    66 67 68

    Let’s return to our route. The beginning of the ice wall of about 40 meters and then traverse another ice wall of 60 meters and then traverse again and 5900 camp, after camp road on the ridge, a couple of difficult ice knives, bypass the gendarme and the outlet to the top of the summit tower, a small 35-40 meters bypassing the tower on the right on the shelf and coming out on top. For insurance used ice screws (mostly did eyelets on the descent). Along the ridge there are often traces of those who’ve been here before, sites for tents and other small items.

    69 70 71

    One finding struck us with its tragedy. Torn tent «Pamirka» tin can with carefully Packed cigarettes and Primus «bumblebee» which has a release date of 1979. It looks like someone’s gone one way. Perhaps, who knows, what’s the matter? I would be grateful for the information.

    Top. The top is the place where all the paths lead only down. A bronze bust of Marx made in ‘ 69. A plaque with a quote calling to change the world. Five flags on bamboo sticks left by the Iranian expedition were found on the top. Also a package of chocolates with a sticker of the Polish club(www.skpb.lodz.pl ), they came up here in 17 year. Everything is in excellent condition, on top there is no much snow, it takes a strong wind that blows constantly, because the height of almost 7 km. Descent on the way up. The descent of the difficulties is not. Climbing from camp 5900 started at 6 am to the top came out at 15 o’clock, the camp at 5900 returned with lanterns at 21 o’clock, the result of «walking» 15 hours. I don’t know if this world has changed while we were walking on the Mountain, but we have changed a lot, it is always so. Mountain she always makes us better, for this and mountaineering!

    Camp 5900

    73 74 75

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    77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85

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    87

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    89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101

Climbing the mountain «PIK Karl Marx» 6700м «

In honor of the year of tourism development and traditional national crafts in Tajikistan.

Без названия

Social organization of Mountain sports Club «AGBA» in the summer of 2018 plans to hold mountaineering expedition to Shakhadra ridge of the Pamir.
The main purpose of the expedition. Climbing the mountain «PIK Karl Marx» 6700м «route on the West ridge» 4B.
Time. Climbing season in this area lasts from July 10 to August 30. The exact dates of the expedition are to be determined.
Members of the expedition. Theoretically take part in the expedition on the rights of the member of team of «AGBA» can any citizen of Tajikistan. But in order to become a member of the team must pass preliminary training in the Club. (we therefore declare for a long time before, to have time to prepare). Foreign nationals can also take part in expeditions on terms that will be adopted in the preparation process.
To learn more about the expedition and about the possibility of your participation you can contact the Club.
E-mail; turakademia@gmail.com

Jelandy-Wrang

In early July of 2017 Club Team «AGBA» in the Anatoly Sharipov, Simon Krylov , Ramit Senjapov  passed on the route.

  1. Jelondy, valley Tuzumtaykul.( The numbers correspond to the days on the route)

2.3.Pass 4291 M. lake Turumtaykul 4202 m. (day of Rest)

4.River valley Duzakhdara South.

5.The valley of the river Shahdara , Javshangoz.

6.7.River valley Wiring.

  1. Pass Wrang 5067м river valley Wnucut.

9.The valley of the Panj river (Wakhan) the village Vrang.

The trekking program was conceived as acclimatization. The route passed without incident for 9 days.. At the end of the campaign was an attempt to climb PIK Karl Marx 6700м with glacier Nishgar. Unfortunately, climbing, for objective reasons, had to interrupt.. the Team reached an altitude of 6100m.

Outcome: passed the tracking interesting and made a deep exploration of the route of ascent to the peak of Karl Marx.

Our route on the map of Tajikistan. Наш путь на карте Таджикистана.
Our route on the map of Tajikistan.
Jelondy. The beginning of the path. Джеланды. Начало пути.
Jelondy. The beginning of the path.
2.Camp in the valley Tuzumtaykul. Лагерь в долине Тузумтайкуль.
2. Camp in the valley Tuzumtaykul.
3
The Plants Of The Pamirs. Растения Памира.
4
Pamir.
5
Camp in the valley Tuzumtaykul. Not far away the homes of local residents on summer pastures. Лагерь в долине Тузумтайкуль. Неподалеку летовка -жилище памирцев на летних пастбищах.
6
Pass 4291м. The valley Tuzumtaykul. Перевал 4291м.Долина Тузумтайкуль.
7
7. Lake Turumtaykul 4202 m.The view from the pass 4291м.
8
Camp on the shore of lake Turumtaykul
9
The Plants Of The Pamirs.
10
Lake Turumtaykul
11
The Plants Of The Pamirs.
12
Camp on the shore of lake Turumtaykul.
13
Lake Turumtaykul
14
The Plants Of The Pamirs.
15
Lake Turumtaykul
16
Camp in the valley of the river Duzakhdara South.
17
In the way.
18
The Plants Of The Pamirs.
19
So we saw the peaks of Marx and Engels for the first time
20
The ruins of the fortress Javshangoz.
21
The Plants Of The Pamirs.
22
A modern inscription in the fortress.
23
Valley Wirang
24
PIK Karl Marx view of the valley Wirang.
25
The Plants Of The Pamirs.
26
Camp before the pass Wrang.
27
The ascent to the pass Wrong.
28
The ascent to the pass Wrong.
29
Pass Wrang 5067м.
30
The descent from the pass Wrang.
31
The descent from the pass Wrang.
32
The descent from the pass Wrang.
33
The Plants Of The Pamirs.
34
The descent from the pass Wrang.
35
In the valley of Wnucut.
36
In the valley of Wnucut.
37
The Plants Of The Pamirs.
38
In the valley of Wnucut.
39
In the valley of Wnucut.
40
Our friend Zarbali.
41
In the valley of Wnucut.
42
The valley of the Panj river (Wakhan) Wrang.
43
The valley of the Panj river (Wakhan) Wrang.
44
Buddhist temple.
45
Pamir gems.
46
The path to the top of the valley Nishar.
47
The path to the top of the valley Nishar.
48
The path to the top of the valley Nishar.
49
Camp on the way to glacier Nishgar.
50
The Plants Of The Pamirs.
51
Camp on the way to glacier Nishgar.
52
Ramit.
53
Camp on the glacier Nishgar 5100 m.
54
View of the summit from the camp.
55
In the camp.
56
Morning, ascent.
57
Morning, ascent.
58
Morning, ascent.
59
During the ascent.
60
During the ascent.
61
Peak Karl Marx and pass Nishgar Central 6370м.
61a
Peak Karl Marx and pass Nishgar Central 6370м.
62
The route of ascent.
63
Pass Nishgar from the South 5650m..
64
Simon and Ramit.
65
The last camp of the expedition 2017.
66
The Plants Of The Pamirs.
67
Pamir gems.
68
The descent into the valley.
69
Elements of the Mountain civilization
70
The Wakhan valley.

The peaks of Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels from the South. Approaches and base camp.

Photo report of the Club’s team of «AGBA» about the expedition in Shadra ridge with a visit to the base camp under the peaks of Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels.

 

Task — familiarity with the district, exploration roads, trails, sites for camps. Contacts with the local population, providing services of guest houses and the delivery of goods to base camp.

 

Team: Sharipov, Anatoly — Director, chef, photographer, communication. Maryam Sharipova — driver.

 

Automotive part was held in the following paragraphs. Dushanbe, Khorog, kalaihumb, Ishkashim, Vrang, Langar lane, Khargush, Bulunkul, Yashilkul, Dzhelandy, Khorog, Dushanbe (Pamir the small ring).

 

The pedestrian part. Langar, base camp(3967м) peak Engels, Wrang, Iniv, base camp(3870 m) peak of Karl Marx.

 

The tasks carried out.

 

Dear fellow hikers-climbers, just travelers!

 

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Garage No. 21 Start 24 June 2016.
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The gates of the city of Kulyab.
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Waterfall . Highway M 41.
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Rubob.
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Darvaz. The Gate Of The Pamir.
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Highway M 41.
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Highway M 41.
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Highway M 41.
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Highway M 41.
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Highway M 41.
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Highway M 41.
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Highway M 41.
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Highway M 41.
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Highway M 41.
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Highway M 41.
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Holiday «Vahdat» (Day of reconciliation) Khorog.
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Holiday «Vahdat» (Day of reconciliation) Khorog.
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Классический памирский интерьер.
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Beauty gathered on the holiday.
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Ishkashim travel.
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Ishkashim –Langar.
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Ishkashim –Langar.
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Ishkashim –Langar.
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Ishkashim -Langar.The source of mineral water.
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Guest house. Yadgar. Langar.
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Guest house. Yadgar. Langar.
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Guest house. Yadgar. Langar.
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Langar.The petroglyphs.
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Langar.The petroglyphs.
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Langar.The petroglyphs.
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Drovers of donkeys.
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Base camp under the southern slopes of the peak Engels.
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The Afghan pressure cooker, an essential thing in high-altitude base camp.
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Work in the kitchen.
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And on the horizon the Hindu Kush
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At night the wolves feasted
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Engels peak.
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Engels peak.
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Engels peak.
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The mountains of the peak district Engels
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The mountains of the peak district Engels
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The mountains of the peak district Engels
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The mountains of the peak district Engels
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The mountain flowers.
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The mountain flowers.
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The mountain flowers.
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The mountain flowers.
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The mountain flowers.
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Madina. Strong personality.
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The lake in the vicinity of the base camp.
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The lake in the vicinity of the base camp.
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The lake in the vicinity of the base camp.
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Meadow and base camp under the peak of Engels.
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Meadow and base camp under the peak of Engels.
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Pass (4750 m).
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Pass (4750 m).
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At the peak of Engels bad weather.
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At the peak of Engels bad weather.
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Girls from the summer pastures.
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Girls from the summer pastures.
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Girls from the summer pastures.
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Girls from the summer pastures.
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The Village Inew.
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The Village Inew.
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The Hindu Kush
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The Hindu Kush
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The valley of the river Panj.Wrang.
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In base camp under the peak of Karl Marx.
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In base camp under the peak of Karl Marx.
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In base camp under the peak of Karl Marx.
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In base camp under the peak of Karl Marx.
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I The first time Karl Marx peak, we saw this.
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Karl Marx peak to the South.
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Karl Marx peak to the South.
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Karl Marx peak to the South.
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Edelweiss.
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A sacred place.
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Teresken.
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Room. Summer pasture.
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People from the summer pastures.
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People from the summer pastures.
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People from the summer pastures.
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People from the summer pastures. Bek.
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People from the summer pastures.
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People from the summer pastures.
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People from the summer pastures.
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People from the summer pastures.
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Evening riding on a donkey.
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Evening riding on a donkey.
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Evening meeting.The plans for tomorrow.
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The Pamir path.
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The Wakhan people.
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The Wakhan people.
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The Wakhan people. Zarbash.
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The Wakhan people. Bahtovar.
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The Wakhan people. Nazri.
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To the East.
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The Afghan Bank of the river Pamir.
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On the Khargush pass.
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Khargush Pass.4344 M.
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The lake.Khargush Pass.4344 M.
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Bulunkul.
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Bulunkul.
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Bulunkul.
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Bulunkul.
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Bulunkul.
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Bulunkul.
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Bulunkul.
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Bulunkul.
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Bulunkul.
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Bulunkul.
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Yashilkul.
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Yashilkul.
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Alichur.
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On the way home.
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On the way home.
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On the way home.
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On the way home.
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On the way home.
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The last day of the trip.17.07.2016.

Anyone interested who wants to visit the area. I am pleased to share the information collected.

foto. Sharipov.A.