Архив метки: mountaineering

The peaks of Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels from the South. Approaches and base camp.

Photo report of the Club’s team of «AGBA» about the expedition in Shadra ridge with a visit to the base camp under the peaks of Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels.

 

Task — familiarity with the district, exploration roads, trails, sites for camps. Contacts with the local population, providing services of guest houses and the delivery of goods to base camp.

 

Team: Sharipov, Anatoly — Director, chef, photographer, communication. Maryam Sharipova — driver.

 

Automotive part was held in the following paragraphs. Dushanbe, Khorog, kalaihumb, Ishkashim, Vrang, Langar lane, Khargush, Bulunkul, Yashilkul, Dzhelandy, Khorog, Dushanbe (Pamir the small ring).

 

The pedestrian part. Langar, base camp(3967м) peak Engels, Wrang, Iniv, base camp(3870 m) peak of Karl Marx.

 

The tasks carried out.

 

Dear fellow hikers-climbers, just travelers!

 

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Garage No. 21 Start 24 June 2016.
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The gates of the city of Kulyab.
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Waterfall . Highway M 41.
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Rubob.
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Darvaz. The Gate Of The Pamir.
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Highway M 41.
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Highway M 41.
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Highway M 41.
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Highway M 41.
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Highway M 41.
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Highway M 41.
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Highway M 41.
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Highway M 41.
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Highway M 41.
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Highway M 41.
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Holiday «Vahdat» (Day of reconciliation) Khorog.
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Holiday «Vahdat» (Day of reconciliation) Khorog.
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Классический памирский интерьер.
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Beauty gathered on the holiday.
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Ishkashim travel.
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Ishkashim –Langar.
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Ishkashim –Langar.
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Ishkashim –Langar.
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Ishkashim -Langar.The source of mineral water.
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Guest house. Yadgar. Langar.
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Guest house. Yadgar. Langar.
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Guest house. Yadgar. Langar.
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Langar.The petroglyphs.
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Langar.The petroglyphs.
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Langar.The petroglyphs.
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Drovers of donkeys.
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Base camp under the southern slopes of the peak Engels.
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The Afghan pressure cooker, an essential thing in high-altitude base camp.
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Work in the kitchen.
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And on the horizon the Hindu Kush
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At night the wolves feasted
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Engels peak.
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Engels peak.
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Engels peak.
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The mountains of the peak district Engels
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The mountains of the peak district Engels
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The mountains of the peak district Engels
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The mountains of the peak district Engels
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The mountain flowers.
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The mountain flowers.
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The mountain flowers.
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The mountain flowers.
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The mountain flowers.
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Madina. Strong personality.
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The lake in the vicinity of the base camp.
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The lake in the vicinity of the base camp.
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The lake in the vicinity of the base camp.
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Meadow and base camp under the peak of Engels.
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Meadow and base camp under the peak of Engels.
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Pass (4750 m).
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Pass (4750 m).
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At the peak of Engels bad weather.
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At the peak of Engels bad weather.
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Girls from the summer pastures.
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Girls from the summer pastures.
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Girls from the summer pastures.
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Girls from the summer pastures.
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The Village Inew.
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The Village Inew.
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The Hindu Kush
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The Hindu Kush
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The valley of the river Panj.Wrang.
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In base camp under the peak of Karl Marx.
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In base camp under the peak of Karl Marx.
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In base camp under the peak of Karl Marx.
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In base camp under the peak of Karl Marx.
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I The first time Karl Marx peak, we saw this.
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Karl Marx peak to the South.
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Karl Marx peak to the South.
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Karl Marx peak to the South.
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Edelweiss.
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A sacred place.
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Teresken.
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Room. Summer pasture.
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People from the summer pastures.
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People from the summer pastures.
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People from the summer pastures.
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People from the summer pastures. Bek.
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People from the summer pastures.
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People from the summer pastures.
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People from the summer pastures.
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People from the summer pastures.
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Evening riding on a donkey.
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Evening riding on a donkey.
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Evening meeting.The plans for tomorrow.
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The Pamir path.
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The Wakhan people.
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The Wakhan people.
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The Wakhan people. Zarbash.
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The Wakhan people. Bahtovar.
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The Wakhan people. Nazri.
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To the East.
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The Afghan Bank of the river Pamir.
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On the Khargush pass.
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Khargush Pass.4344 M.
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The lake.Khargush Pass.4344 M.
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Bulunkul.
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Bulunkul.
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Bulunkul.
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Bulunkul.
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Bulunkul.
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Bulunkul.
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Bulunkul.
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Bulunkul.
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Bulunkul.
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Bulunkul.
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Yashilkul.
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Yashilkul.
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Alichur.
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On the way home.
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On the way home.
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On the way home.
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On the way home.
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On the way home.
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The last day of the trip.17.07.2016.

Anyone interested who wants to visit the area. I am pleased to share the information collected.

foto. Sharipov.A.

22 февраля.Зеркало.В ожидании весны.

22 февраля состоялось мероприятие скальная тренировка.В тренировке приняло участие 9 человек спортсменов клуба «Агба» и ребята из команды Института предпринимательства и сервиса.Была тренировка для новичков и опытных спортсменов.Лазали с верхней и нижней страховкой и немного боулдеринг.IMG_2377 IMG_2381 IMG_2387 IMG_2398 IMG_2404 IMG_2420 IMG_2421 IMG_2429 IMG_2439 IMG_2441 IMG_2442 IMG_2449 IMG_2455 IMG_2462 IMG_2464 IMG_2467 IMG_2472 IMG_2475 IMG_2476 IMG_2487 IMG_2496 IMG_2499 IMG_2508 IMG_2510 IMG_2517 IMG_2519 IMG_2522 IMG_2523 IMG_2529 IMG_2531 IMG_2538 IMG_2541 IMG_2545 IMG_2562 IMG_2602 IMG_2578 IMG_2583 IMG_2590 IMG_2592 IMG_2594 IMG_2609 IMG_2615 IMG_2621 - копия

Kisldangi

4 South Alichur ridge is situated on the South of Pamir, on the left share of the river Alichur. The total length is about 150km. The river adjoins 3 km to Sharhdarian ridge. The highest pick is Kisildangr mountain (5706m). Significant spurs adjoin to Bakchigir ridge (35km) and to Bachor ridge (25km). The slope is covered with highland desert plans. There is a nival (relating to regions of perpetual snow). Landscape on the altitude 4200-4500m. Snow line on the north is on the altitude 4900-5150m, on the south-4900-5300m. Total area of glaciers is 68 square km. There areabout to passes with automobile lines and routes in this ridge and in its spurs. Main route of camping lies from north (Pamir track), from South (Pamir Valley).

Kisldangi Mountain.

We climbed from the north side of koiytezek pass. One can drive to the mountain. The simplest route is through south ridge. The route is not difficult 2a-2b, snowy glacier. It will take one luminary day. Splendid sight of Eastern Pamir, Shakhdarian ridge is seen from the pick.                  SAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERASAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERASAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERASAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERASAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERASAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERASAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERADSC02589DSC02582DSC02580DSC02578DSC02573DSC02572DSC02571DSC02568

Granite Paradise

The year has already coming to an end, but I have some obligations. I need to tell something. It happened in August. I have been suggested to work as a consultant in the project “Consultancy for a feasibility study for the Pamir mountaineering and climbing school (PMCS) Khorog, Tajikistan”. The general opinion of the project is positive. We could admire communicating with people, and there are a lot of mountains and prospects. Our club did its best to use as much benefit of the trip as we could. First of all we have got acquainted with the fellow travelers from Pamir Alpine Club. We climbed up the high rocks, and I believe it will be the first step to close relations between our clubs and establishing friendship. On the other hand, it’s useful to say some words about annual music festival « The roof of the world», usually held in Khorog at the beginning of August. Three days of music and dances, a great deal of guests from all over the world brought too much impression. One could admire grandeur and magnificence of Pamir Mountains and rocks . Everyone has its own idea of paradise, but rock climbers have quite different opinion. To my mind there are few trees in their paradise, there are only steep rocks and may be beautiful hourlies waiting for them… We have visited such place in Pamir Mountains that can be called “Granite Paradise”. The first rock climbing wall we had climbed is called Tang after the name of small village Tang (narrow) its situated at the distance 37o3748.12”N 71o45’44.32”. The history of discovering this rock climbing wall is as following: American rock climber Bo White came here with rock drill and screws in…? But as for me, I had climbed up those rocks in 1987-88s when I had been working at the construction of Pamir power station. At the result we had seen several routes of the stations provided with necessary equipment for upper protection (insurance) of complexity from 4 to 7+ UIAA, being not very long, 20m each of them. There are granite rocks, convenient cracks for stoppers and kamalots, short trad routes with reliable statins. There is also one light route (50m) fully perforated by screws (4-5 UIAA). It is very pictures and admirable. Besides, there are three routes of 5-6 categories at the distance 37o38’5.27”N 71o45’19.28”E in this area per one hour strolling along the road which were marked by our friend YvoWeidmann who noted the stations and complicated districts perforated by screws as it is shown at the picture. There are also a lot of rubbles for bouldering on the large glade stretching along the massif. The next object is situated in the region of the village Bogev. The distance of this route is one rope length long. But this route is unique on the territory of Tajikistan. It is perforated by screws and its complexity reaches the 8th category in accordance with UIAA. 37o31’32.86”N”C 71o40’2, 31”E. it took us one day to climb half way of route, but it was very steep. We decided to visit it once more. As I have already mentioned, we have plenty of perspectives in future. On the whole there are a lot of rocks along the road and on the banks of the rivers Gunt and Shakhdarya as well as just in the yards of people. We also saw many beautiful hourlies at the music festival Generally speaking we have attended real granite paradise, unforgettable reminiscences! At the end of my description I want to express my gratitude to my project colleagues: to the director (manager) of Pamir Alpine ClubSaidrahmonovSharafand all his fellow travel ers from PAC for their hospitality and friendship to Judith Kloiber for best example of his efficient capacity for work, to TomislavDunderovich for giving us the opportunity to adopt European experience of climbing style.

Anatoly Sharipov, better known as Tolik

0 1Tang 2Tang 3Tang 4Tang 5Tang 6Tang 7Tang 8Tang 9Tang 10Tang 11Tang 12Tang 13Tang 14Tang 16Tang 17 bosch restaurant 18Festival 19Festival 20Festival 21Festival 22Festival 23Festival 24Festival 25Festival 26Festival 27Festival 28Festival 29Festival 30Festival 31Festival 32Festival 33 34 35 36Bogev 37Bogev 38Bogev 39Bogev 40Bogev 41Bogev 42Bogev 43Bogev 44Bogev 45Bogev 46Bogev 47Tang 48Tang 49Tang 50Tang 51Tang 52Tang 53Tang 54Tang 55Tang 56Tang 57Tang 58Tang 59Tang 60Tang 61Tang 62Tang 63Tang 64Tang 65Tang 66Tang 67Tang 69Tang 70

topo_overview_tang_gunt

Гранитный рай

Год заканчивается, а у меня задолженность .Надо обязательно рассказать. Это было в августе.

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Начнем с того что мне (Anatoly Sharipov, better known as Tolik)предложили поработать консультантом в проекте MSDSP под названием CONSULTANCY FOR A FEASIBILITY STUDY FOR THE PAMIR MOUNTAINEERING AND CLIMBING SCHOOL (PMCS) «консультации для технико-экономического обоснования памирской школы альпинизма и скалолазания (PMCS) Хорог,Таджикистан». Что можно сказать, общее впечатление от проекта позитивное – есть люди, есть горы, есть перспективы. Но мы (Клуб) постарались извлечь из возможности поехать на Памир максимум пользы. Итак первое это Люди, мы познакомились с ребятами из Памирского альпинистского клуба(PAC), вместе полазали по скалам, я думаю это станет началом хорошей дружбы между нашими клубами. Также надо упомянуть ежегодный музыкальный фестиваль «Крыша мира» который проходит в Хороге обычно в начале августа, три дня музыки и танцев, куча гостей со всего мира. Очень живописно и весело. Горы…..Памирские горы и скалы, вот тут подробнее .

«Гранитный рай». У каждого своё представление о райских садах, у скалолазов в раю я думаю деревьев очень мало, сплошные скалы, пышногрудые гурии думаю тоже присутствуют, там где то поджидают…..  в палатках. Но мы были в таком  месте которое мне захотелось назвать «Гранитный рай».Это здесь, у нас на Памире. Первый скалодром где мы лазали называется «Танг». Кишлак рядом называется Танг ну и скалодром стало быть тоже. Если быть совсем точным, то  37°37’48.12″N 71°45’44.32″E.История возникновения выглядит так. Некий Бо Вайт (Bo White) американский скалолаз ,появился в этих краях с перфоратором и болтами в ??? году. (На самом деле я лазал на этих скалах ещё в 1987-88 годах когда работал на строительстве Памир ГЭС 1) Результат который мы видели, это несколько маршрутов с оборудованными станциями для верхней страховки сложностью от 4 до 7+ UIAA все не очень длинные метров по 20. Скалы гранитные, есть длинные удобные трещины для стопперов и камалотов, т.е можно лазать короткие трэдовые маршруты заканчивающиеся надёжной станцией. Также один маршрут 50 м. полностью пробитый болтами не очень сложный 4-5 UIAA но очень живописный.Река 200 метров. Кроме того в этом же районе в часе ходьбы от дороги 37°38’5.27″N 71°45’19.28″E постарался и наш старый знакомый Иво Вейдман (YvoWeidmann). Он сделал три маршрута 5-6 категории, набиты станции и некоторые проблемные  участки пробиты болтами,что хорошо видно на рисунке. Тут же на большой поляне тянущейся вдоль всего массива очень много валунов для боулдеринга .Следующий объект находится в районе кишлака Богев ,там есть только один маршрут длинной в одну верёвку зато какой. Возможно единственный на территории Таджикистана ,пробитый болтами маршрут 8 категории сложности по UIAA. 37°31’32.86″N «С 71°40’2.31″E. Полазали, только один день. Пролезли половину. Очень круто! Думаем обязательно приехать ещё. Как я уже говорил, перспективы тоже есть. Вообще скал очень много, есть прямо у дороги, есть по берегу Гунта и Шахдары, есть даже кое у кого прямо во дворе. А на фестивале мы видели целую «дивизию» тех самых пышногрудых гурий .Одним словом гранитный рай.

В конце хочется поблагодарить коллег по проекту: Директора  PACСаидрахмонова Шарафа и всех ребят из PAC за дружбу и гостеприимство. Юдит Клойбер(Judith Kloiber) за отличный пример эффективной работоспособности. Томислава Дундеровича (Tomislav Dunderovic) за возможность перенять опыт европейского стиля восхождений.

topo_overview_tang_gunt

School of rock climbing

Dear fellow citizens and guests of Tajikistan. Public organization ««Republican Mountain-Sports Club «Akhba»» «» presents a new project. «School of rock climbingThe essence of it is to offer the tourist market of Tajikistan new productclimbing routes, with pre-points and intermediate points of insurance.. As we previously reported (19 km Climbing wall «Renovation» and Mirror. New camp, new routes), in Varzob gorge (near Dushanbe) by foreign experts, and with the participation of members of our club prepared 5 climbing areas. We want to offer you, depending on your experience, any option, from full support to your chosen route, including equipment hire, to a simple consultation. And of course, no one can stop you, if you have enough skill to use these routes independently.

So , Rahim, Roma, and Maryam offers the following programs in principle from the simple to the complex:

rock Mirror
rock Mirror 38°42’30.37″N 68°47’59.93″E
Rock bottom mirror
Rock bottom mirror 38°42’33.32″N 68°47’40.43″E
19 km Varzob
19 km Varzob 38°43’28.17″N 68°47’23.92″E

 

 

 

 

 

53 ал Варзоб1

1.Dependance Day 1.Ahba ScoobyDoo Juno (2) ScoobyDoo (2) Sandstand1 Sandstand Pillar1 Pillar Juno Dependance Day1 Dependance Day1EasyPeacy2EasyPeacy3.Dependance Day9.Mizhgon

alplager varzob
alplager varzob 38°58’29.51″N 68°46’3.08″E

 

3 Topo_NiceTryTryHarder_Sioma
3 Topo_NiceTryTryHarder_Sioma 38°57’57.88″N 68°43’14.15″E

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Club team

Anatoly Raimzhanovich Sharipov - the Director. In club from the date of the basis. Mountaineering since 1981. Rock-climbing с1977 years.
Anatoly Raimzhanovich Sharipov — the Director. In club from the date of the basis. Mountaineering since 1981. Rock-climbing с1977 years.
Hurshed Shomamatov. - the Chief of a teaching department according to the Technical Rope Access program. In club from the date of the basis. Mountaineering since 2007Хуршед Шомаматов.-Начальник учебной части по программе «промальп». В клубе со дня основания. Альпинизм с 2007 года.
Hurshed Shomamatov. — the Chief of a teaching department according to the Technical Rope Access program. In club from the date of the basis. Mountaineering since 2007Хуршед Шомаматов.-Начальник учебной части по программе «промальп». В клубе со дня основания. Альпинизм с 2007 года.
Maryam Sharipova. In club from the date of the basis. Mountaineering with 2010. Climber of Tajikistan badge. Rock-climbing with 2003. Candidate for the master of sports. The champion of the Republic the first places in all republican competitions in which took part from 2007 to 2012.1.Марьям Шарипова. В клубе со дня основания. Альпинизм с 2010.Значок «Альпинист Таджикистана». Скалолазание с 2003.Кандидат в мастера спорта. Чемпионка Республики,первые места во всех республиканских соревнованиях в которых принимала участие с 2007 по 2012 год.
Maryam Sharipova. In club from the date of the basis. Mountaineering with 2010. Climber of Tajikistan badge. Rock-climbing with 2003. Candidate for the master of sports. The champion of the Republic the first places in all republican competitions in which took part from 2007 to 2013.1. Марьям Шарипова. В клубе со дня основания. Альпинизм с 2010.Значок «Альпинист Таджикистана». Скалолазание с 2003.Кандидат в мастера спорта. Чемпионка Республики,первые места во всех республиканских соревнованиях в которых принимала участие с 2007 по 2013 год.
Satarov Vitaly. In club since 2008. Climber of Tajikistan badge 2010. The candidate for the master of sports on rock-climbing.Саттаров Виталий. В клубе с 2008 года. Значок «Альпинист Таджикистана» 2010 год.Кандидат в мастера спорта по скалолазанию.
Satarov Vitaly. In club since 2008. Climber of Tajikistan badge 2010. The candidate for the master of sports on rock-climbing.Саттаров Виталий. В клубе с 2008 года. Значок «Альпинист Таджикистана» 2010 год.Кандидат в мастера спорта по скалолазанию.
Jamshed Kadyrov. In club since 2007. Mountaineering. Rock-climbing.Джамшед Кадыров. В клубе с 2007 года. Альпинизм. Скалолазание.
Jamshed Kadyrov. In club since 2007. Mountaineering. Rock-climbing.Джамшед Кадыров. В клубе с 2007 года. Альпинизм. Скалолазание.
Vitaly Maksimov. In club from the date of the basis. Mountaineering since 2003Виталий Максимов. В клубе со дня основания. Альпинизм с 2003 года.
Vitaly Maksimov. In club from the date of the basis. Mountaineering since 2003Виталий Максимов. В клубе со дня основания. Альпинизм с 2003 года.
Vali Inoyatov. In club from the date of the basis. Mountaineering.Вали Иноятов. В клубе со дня основания.Альпинизм.
Vali Inoyatov. In club from the date of the basis. Mountaineering.Вали Иноятов. В клубе со дня основания.Альпинизм.
Rahim Sharipov. In club from the date of the basis. The Climber of Tajikistan badge 2011 year.1 a place in a difficult rock-climbing on Arakchin's 2012.Рахим Шарипов. В клубе со дня основания. Значок «Альпинист Таджикистана» 2011 год.1 место в лазании на сложность Аракчин 2012.
Rahim Sharipov. In club from the date of the basis. The Climber of Tajikistan badge 2011 year.1 a place in a difficult rock-climbing on Arakchin’s 2012.Рахим Шарипов. В клубе со дня основания. Значок «Альпинист Таджикистана» 2011 год.1 место в лазании на сложность Аракчин 2012.
Roman Tashtabanov. In club with 2012. rock-climbing.2 place "Superiority of club rock climbing wall of "Poytakht" 12.2012.Роман Таштабанов. В клубе с 2012.Скалолазание.2 место «Первенство клуба скалодром «Пойтахт» 12.2012.
Roman Tashtabanov. In club with 2012. rock-climbing.2 place «Superiority of club rock climbing wall of «Poytakht» 12.2012.Роман Таштабанов. В клубе с 2012.Скалолазание.2 место «Первенство клуба скалодром «Пойтахт» 12.2012.
Bogdan Mironov. In club since 2010. rock climbing.4 a place in superiority of club the rock climbing wall of "Poytakht" 12.2012.Богдан Миронов. В клубе с 2010 года.Скалолазание.4 место в первенстве клуба скалодром «Пойтахт» 12.2012.
Bogdan Mironov. In club since 2010. rock climbing.4 a place in superiority of club the rock climbing wall of «Poytakht» 12.2012.Богдан Миронов. В клубе с 2010 года.Скалолазание.4 место в первенстве клуба скалодром «Пойтахт» 12.2012.
Ivan Portnyagin. In club since 2007. Mountaineering. Rock-climbing.Иван Портнягин. В клубе с 2009 года. Альпинизм. Скалолазание.
Ivan Portnyagin. In club since 2007. Mountaineering. Rock-climbing.Иван Портнягин. В клубе с 2009 года. Альпинизм. Скалолазание.
Roman Mironov. In club since 2010. Rock-climbing.Роман Миронов. В клубе с 2010 года. Скалолазание.
Roman Mironov. In club since 2010. Rock-climbing.Роман Миронов. В клубе с 2010 года. Скалолазание.
Zuleykha Sharipova. In club from the date of the basis. MountaineeringЗулейха Шарипова. В клубе со дня основания.Альпинизм.
Zuleykha Sharipova. In club from the date of the basis. MountaineeringЗулейха Шарипова. В клубе со дня основания.Альпинизм.
Victoria Kim. In club from the date of the basis. Mountain tourism.Tursunzada town.Виктория Ким. В клубе со дня основания.Горный туризм.г.Турсунзаде.
Victoria Kim. In club from the date of the basis. Mountain tourism.Tursunzada town.Виктория Ким. В клубе со дня основания.Горный туризм.г.Турсунзаде.
Sergey Sidorenko. In club since 2008. Mountaineering. Rock-climbing.Сергей Сидоренко. В клубе с 2008 года. Альпинизм. Скалолазание.
Sergey Sidorenko. In club since 2008. Mountaineering. Rock-climbing.Сергей Сидоренко. В клубе с 2008 года. Альпинизм. Скалолазание.
Anton Rodin. In club since 2011. Mountaineering. Rock-climbing.Антон Родин.В клубе с 2011 года. Альпинизм. Скалолазание.
Anton Rodin. In club since 2011. Mountaineering. Rock-climbing.Антон Родин.В клубе с 2011 года. Альпинизм. Скалолазание.
Makhbuba Aslanova. In club since 2012. Mountaineering.Махбуба Асланова.В клубе с 2012 года.Горный туризм.
Makhbuba Aslanova. In club since 2012. Mountaineering.Махбуба Асланова.В клубе с 2012 года.Горный туризм.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Shakirov Faruh.In the club since 2012year Take a first place among young in the Republic Championship May, 2013.
Shakirov Faruh.In the club since 2012year Take a first place among young in the Republic Championship May, 2013.