Архив метки: Tajikistan

The Trekking of the Club team «AGBA» in the southern spurs of the Gissar range.

3-9 may 2017, the Club team held an event -a Mountain hike in the southern spurs of the Gissar range. The route connected the valleys of the rivers Shirkent, and Karatag . The main objective of sports is preparing for the summer climbing season. Carry heavy backpacks to get used to the new shoes to workout in overcoming various obstacles (crossing rivers, steep mountain slopes, long ascents and descents). And of course for the soul is Serkent barrier, a uniquely beautiful place. I want to say more but words are not enough, you can see photos

In the tracking went: Anatoli Sharipov. Mahbuba Aslanova. Simon Krilov. Ramit Senjapov.

……

0 Walking part of the way
Walking part of the way
1 The hike begins on may 3
The hike begins on may 3
2 Sherkent Valley
Sherkent Valley
3 Sherkent Valley
Sherkent Valley
4 Sherkent Valley. Cliff dinosaur footprints.
Sherkent Valley. Cliff dinosaur footprints.
6 Sherkent Valley. First camp.
Sherkent Valley. First camp.
7 Sherkent Valley.
Sherkent Valley
8 Sherkent Valley.
Sherkent Valley
9 Sherkent Valley.
Sherkent Valley
10 Mhbuba.SherkentValley.
Mhbuba.SherkentValley
11 Simon Sherkent Valley.
Simon Sherkent Valley.
12 Rhodíola rósea L
Rhodíola rósea L
13 Sherkent Valley.
Sherkent Valley.
14 Sherkent Valley.
Sherkent Valley.
15 Ramit.To the pass Pasichmikuhna
To the pass Pasichmikuhna
16 pass Pasichmikuhna
pass Pasichmikuhna
17 Camp 2.Pass Pasichmikuhna
Camp 2.Pass Pasichmikuhna
18 Sherkent barrier
«Sherkent barrier»
19 Crossing the river Obijir
Crossing the river Obijir
20 Crossing the river Obijir
Crossing the river Obijir
21 The Tract Zagargo The descent into the valley Sherkent..
The Tract Zagargo The descent into the valley Sherkent..
22 Lunch on the way Sherkent.
Lunch on the way Sherkent.
23 Rest on the way.Sherkent Valley
Rest on the way.Sherkent Valley
24 Village Pashmikuhna
Village Pashmikuhna
25 The bridge over the river Hazorhona
The bridge over the river Hazorhona
26 Tajik Mushrooms
Tajik Mushrooms
27 1 Tajik Mushrooms
Tajik Mushrooms
27 Ferula assa-foetida L
Ferula assa-foetida L
28 Camp 3 on the shore of the river Sandaldarya
Camp 3 on the shore of the river Sandaldarya
29 In the gorge Sandaldarya
In the gorge Sandaldarya
30 Historical nature park “Sherkent”
Historical nature park “Sherkent”
31 Historical nature park “Sherkent”
Historical nature park “Sherkent”
32 Historical nature park “Sherkent”
Historical nature park “Sherkent”
33 Historical nature park “Sherkent”
Historical nature park “Sherkent”
34 Historical nature park “Sherkent”
Historical nature park “Sherkent”
35 Historical nature park “Sherkent”
Historical nature park “Sherkent”
36 Historical nature park “Sherkent”
Historical nature park “Sherkent”
37 Historical nature park “Sherkent”
Historical nature park “Sherkent”
38 Historical nature park “Sherkent”
Historical nature park “Sherkent”
39 Historical nature park “Sherkent”
Historical nature park “Sherkent”
40 Historical nature park “Sherkent”
Historical nature park “Sherkent”
41 Historical nature park “Sherkent”
Historical nature park “Sherkent”
42 Historical nature park “Sherkent”
Historical nature park “Sherkent”
43 Historical nature park “Sherkent”
Historical nature park “Sherkent”
44 Tajik Mushrooms
Tajik Mushrooms
45 Historical nature park “Sherkent”
Historical nature park “Sherkent”
46 Historical nature park “Sherkent”
Historical nature park “Sherkent”
48 Historical nature park “Sherkent”
Historical nature park “Sherkent”
49 Historical nature park “Sherkent”
Historical nature park “Sherkent”
50 Historical nature park “Sherkent”
Historical nature park “Sherkent”
50 Tajik Mushrooms
Tajik Mushrooms
51 Tajik Mushrooms
Tajik Mushrooms
52 The tract Chelpursoy
The tract Chelpursoy
53 The tract Chelpursoy
The tract Chelpursoy
54 Camp 3 The tract Chelpursoy
Camp 3 The tract Chelpursoy
55 Bears
Bears
56 The tract Chelpursoy
The tract Chelpursoy
57 The tract Chelpursoy
The tract Chelpursoy
58 The tract Chelpursoy
The tract Chelpursoy
59 The tract Jahob
The tract Jahob
60 To pass Hazorhona
To pass Hazorhona
61 Pass Hazorhona
Pass Hazorhona
62 Valley Katta-Kadjou
Valley Katta-Kadjou
63 Waterfall on the river Katta-Kadjou
Waterfall on the river Katta-Kadjou
64 Waterfall on the river Katta-Kadjou
Waterfall on the river Katta-Kadjou
65 Plateau Parmin.
Plateau Parmin.
66 Plateau Parmin.
Plateau Parmin
67 Plateau Parmin.
Plateau Parmin
68 In the gorge Karatag
In the gorge Karatag
69 In the gorge Karatag
In the gorge Karatag

 

Shirkent barrier. Historical nature park “Sherkent”

The park is characterized by unique historical geological monuments, the number of which overises over 40 units. Among them there are: geomorphological, lithological, paleontological, tectonic, hydrological, glaciological and historical.

The most considerable in this Park are 3 of different ages dinosaur’s trades locations with the total imprint amount more than 400. Historical monuments include over 50 archeological objects and a few ethnic monuments. Stone age monuments unit ten stay places of primeval people from middle paleolith to neolith.

Animal world of Sherkent park is represented by a great variety of species. More than 30 mammal species including snow leopard, Tian Shan brown bear, stoat, weugel, Siberian goat and others inhabit this area. Ornithological fauna structure of Sherkent Park comprises over 40 species of settled and more than 55 migrates birds. The river is rich with troutIMG_4019 IMG_3946 IMG_3844 IMG_0217 IMG_0179 IMG_0149 IMG_0134 IMG_0127 IMG_0116 IMG_0103 IMG_0088 IMG_0082 IMG_0061 IMG_0026

The route to the Fedchenko glacier.Equipment for means of tracking and climbing.

Equipment  for means of tracking and climbing.

Name. Description. Right quantity.
Shoes. https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/la-sportiva-karakorum-evo-gtx-shoes-green-natural-green-natural-44-5/ Pair
Sandals for crossing the river. https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/teva-terra-fi-lite-sandal-guell-black-grey-us8/ 1
Jacket warm. https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/mountain-equipment-dewline-jacket-cosmos-s/ 1
Jacket storm. Size storm jacket should be such that it can be worn over a warm jacket(2)

https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/salewa-puez-gtx-2l-jacket-black-out-s/

1
Storm pants https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/mountain-equipment-karakorum-pants-black-black-m/ 1
The jacket of fleece or Polartec 1
Pants fleece or Polartec 1
Thermal underwear 2
Socks Minimum quantity: 3 pairs
Beanie warm Beanie without visor tightly covering the ears, with the possibility of dressing under a helmet. 1
Balaclava https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/buff-balaclava-merino-wool-buff-denim/ 1
Gloves fleece or Polartec 1
Gloves https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/outdoor-research-highcamp-glove-black-s/ 1
Gaiter https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/outdoor-research-verglas-gaiters-abyss-abyss-s/ 1
Glasses https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/alpina-sibiria-glacier-eyewear-white-green-green-mirror/ 1
Helmet https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/petzl-elios-climbing-helmet-gelb-1/ 1
Harness https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/petzl-tour-hochtourengurt-s-m/ 1
Ice-axe https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/grivel-g1-ice-axe-58cm/

Long 55- 70 см

1
Crampons https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/grivel-g10-wide-new-matic-001/

Attaching Crampons should be compatible with shoes.

1
Icescrew https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/petzl-laser-speed-light-ice-screw-10cm/  17-21 см 1
Ascender https://www.petzl.com/INT/en/Sport/Ascenders/TIBLOC#.WCrBg1OfdjY 2
Belay device https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/petzl-reverso-4-belay-device-apfelgruen/ 1
Carabiner https://www.petzl.com/INT/en/Sport/Carabiners-and-quickdraws/Am-D#.WCrB_lOfdjY 5
The Cord 6мм https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/tendon-cord-005/ 6мм 12 m
Sleeping Bag comfort temperature-12 С 1
Sleeping Pad Possible overnight on the ice

. https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/therm-a-rest-prolite-plus-sleeping-pad-small/

1
Tableware Mug,deep plate (light unbreakable material),spoon,small knife.
Thermos 1.0 L https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/salewa-thermo-lite-thermos-1-0-l-cool-grey/ 1
Headlamp https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/petzl-tikka-xp-headlamp-schwarz/ 1
Backpack A volume of 60 liters

https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/deuter-aircontact-75plus10-backpack-arctic-navy/

1

In the description reference is made to specific models, you can choose things to your taste, it is important to have the same characteristics as the samples.

Expedition to the Fedchenko glacier.

 

High-altitude trekking, a large part of the route passes above 4000 meters.

Definitely the climbing techniques and equipment (link on the right things).

Duration of Dushanbe in Dushanbe 23 days.

Date in 2017. 3.09 — 25.09.

Automobile part.

Pictures is here.
Car part of the way. The main points
Car part of the way. The main points

A car trip(road А384,R44,M41) runs through Kulob Kalai-Khumb, Rushan, and then to the top of the Bartang river to the village of Pachora. The way back to Dushanbe through the valley of river Vanj. The road is very challenging and interesting. Includes visits to historical and natural monuments located along the way. Possible option only on the road, M41. The Toyota «Land Cruiser», «Hilux».

The pedestrian part.

19 days.

Pictures is here.
The pedestrian part. Camp on the route
The pedestrian part. Camp on the route

The pedestrian part of the route starts in Bartang, it is the most remote valley of the Pamirs. Held by the largest glacier, Fedchenko and Musculak (Grum-Grzhimailo), in the way you will see the peaks Somoni (Communism) and Garmo, then visit the weather station «Fedchenko» . The route ends in the valley of river Vanj.

Date. Days.on the route. Description. Overnight,

No. camps (C №) altitude camps.

3.09.17. 1. Dushanbe-Kalai-Khumb. Overnight in Kalai-Khumb. 1260m.
4.09.17. 2. Kalai-Khumb -Basit. Overnight in Basit. 2349m.
5.09.17. 3. Basit— Pasor camp-C 1(hereinafter, all the nights in a tent camp).3030m.

 

6.09.17. 4. Pasor -river valley Havrazdara C 2. 3408m.
7.09.17. 5. river valley Havrazdara C 3. 3814m.
8.09.17. 6. Lake  Havraz C 4. 4013m.
9.09.17. 7. Glacier  «Cold wall» C 5. 4395m.
10.09.17. 8. Glacier «Cold wall» -pass «Cold»(Holodny) 4565 glacier «Grum Grzhimailo» C 6. 4402m.
11.09.17. 9. Glacier «Grum Grzhimailo» C 7. 4000m.
12.09.17. 10. Glacier «Grum Grzhimailo»,Tanymas Rivers. C 8. 3686m.
13.09.17. 11. Reserve day. Reserve days needed for the preparation of the group prior to technically difficult sections of the route, rest and in case of bad weather. C 8. 3686m.
14.09.17. 12. Glacier Tanymas 2. Crossing the river Tanymas. C 9. 3894m.
15.09.17. 13. Glacier Tanymas 3. C 10. 4321m.
16.09.17. 14. Pass   Tanymas 4529. C 11. 4529m.
17.09.17. 15. Pass   Tanymas .  The Fedchenko Glacier. C 12. 4299m.
18.09.17. 16. The Fedchenko Glacier. Hydro-meteorological station Fedchenko C 13. 4217m.
19.09.17. 17. Reserve day. Reserve days needed for the preparation of the group prior to technically difficult sections of the route, rest and in case of bad weather. C 13. 4217m.
20.09.17. 18. Hydro-meteorological station Fedchenko  pass Kasal ayak 4466. C 14. 4080m.
21.09.17. 19. pass Kashal ayak . The Glacier Of The Russian Geographic Society (RGO). C 15. 3406m.
22.09.17. 20. The Glacier Of The Russian Geographic Society (RGO). River Abdukagor. C 16. 2628m.
23.09.17. 21. Reserve day. Reserve days needed for the preparation of the group prior to technically difficult sections of the route, rest and in case of bad weather. C 17
24.09.17. 22. Crossing the river Abdukagor .The Village Poimazor. Vanch. Overnight in Vanjch.
25.90.17. 23. Vanch .Dushanbe.

Requirements for tourists.

Absence of medical contra-indications to occupations by mountain sports and high-altitude mountaineering. Age limit — not below the age of 20. Good physical preparation. The availability of the necessary equipment. Personal items bedding and personal gear of the tourists themselves.

The staff on the route.

Guide. Allows the passage of the route and the safety of tourists.

Assistant guide. The safety of tourists.

Porters. Carrying food, fuel and equipment for intermediate camps.

The equipment group.

The guides have the necessary safety equipment to ensure the safety of the group during the passage of glaciers and difficult parts of the route.

Intermediate camp, overnight on the route.

Accommodation in tents for 2 person.

Food on the mountain part of the route.

Food along the route consists of the products do not require cooking. Every tourist for Breakfast lunch and dinner will be provided one liter of boiling water ,in which it will be able to cook any dish from a set of products.

Position. assortment
1 warm drink Tea in assortment. Coffee natural soluble. The dry milk.
2 Quick-cooking porridge Oat cereal «BYSTROV».
3 Sweet Alpen Gold «Milk chocolate», honey, halva, jam.
4 Bread products. Tajik flatbread, crackers, wafers, cookies.
5 Cheese products. Hard cheese, processed cheese.

 

6 Meat products. Bacon, smoked bacon, smoked sausages, sausages.
7 Fish. Dried fish, anchovies.
8 Soups. Soup of fast preparation.
9 The garnishes. Rice, buckwheat, mashed potatoes, noodles.
10 Vegetables. Onion, garlic.
11 Dry fruits dried apricots; raisins; prunes; dates; peanuts; walnut.
12 Other Salt, spices, lemons, tomato paste, ketchup.

xxx

The route to the glaciers of the Central Pamir.Car part of the way.

rrrrrrrr

Car part of the way. The main points
Car part of the way. The main points
1-0-dushanbe-kalai-khumb
Dushanbe-Kalai-Khumb
1-1-kalai-khumb
Kalai-Khumb
1-2-kalai-khumb
Kalai-Khumb
1-3-kalai-khumb-rushan
Kalai Khumb — Rushan
1-4-bartang
Bartang
1-5-bartang-yapshorv
Bartang Yapshorv
1-7-bartang-yapshorv
Bartang Yapshorv
1-10-bartang-roshorv
Bartang Roshorv
1-12-bartang
Bartang
1-13-bartang-nisur
Bartang Nisur
1-14-bartang
Bartang
1-15-bartang-savnob
Bartang Savnob
1-16-bartang-savnob-fortress
Bartang Savnob Fortress
1-17-bartang
Bartang
1-18-bartang
Bartang
1-19-bartang-pasor
Bartang Pasor
1-20-vanch-poimazar
Vanch Poimazar
1-21-vanch
Vanch

The peaks of Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels from the South. Approaches and base camp.

Photo report of the Club’s team of «AGBA» about the expedition in Shadra ridge with a visit to the base camp under the peaks of Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels.

 

Task — familiarity with the district, exploration roads, trails, sites for camps. Contacts with the local population, providing services of guest houses and the delivery of goods to base camp.

 

Team: Sharipov, Anatoly — Director, chef, photographer, communication. Maryam Sharipova — driver.

 

Automotive part was held in the following paragraphs. Dushanbe, Khorog, kalaihumb, Ishkashim, Vrang, Langar lane, Khargush, Bulunkul, Yashilkul, Dzhelandy, Khorog, Dushanbe (Pamir the small ring).

 

The pedestrian part. Langar, base camp(3967м) peak Engels, Wrang, Iniv, base camp(3870 m) peak of Karl Marx.

 

The tasks carried out.

 

Dear fellow hikers-climbers, just travelers!

 

IMG_7633
Garage No. 21 Start 24 June 2016.
IMG_7643
The gates of the city of Kulyab.
IMG_7656
Waterfall . Highway M 41.
IMG_7819
Rubob.
IMG_7661
Darvaz. The Gate Of The Pamir.
IMG_7666
Highway M 41.
IMG_7668
Highway M 41.
IMG_7697
Highway M 41.
IMG_7703
Highway M 41.
IMG_7707
Highway M 41.
IMG_7714
Highway M 41.
IMG_7722
Highway M 41.
IMG_7753
Highway M 41.
IMG_7759
Highway M 41.
IMG_7762
Highway M 41.
IMG_7796
Holiday «Vahdat» (Day of reconciliation) Khorog.
IMG_7802
Holiday «Vahdat» (Day of reconciliation) Khorog.
IMG_7821
Классический памирский интерьер.
IMG_7826
Beauty gathered on the holiday.
IMG_7844
Ishkashim travel.
IMG_7861
Ishkashim –Langar.
IMG_7870
Ishkashim –Langar.
IMG_7897
Ishkashim –Langar.
IMG_7899
Ishkashim -Langar.The source of mineral water.
IMG_7950
Guest house. Yadgar. Langar.
IMG_7953
Guest house. Yadgar. Langar.
IMG_7966
Guest house. Yadgar. Langar.
IMG_7978
Langar.The petroglyphs.
IMG_8000
Langar.The petroglyphs.
IMG_8009
Langar.The petroglyphs.
IMG_8012
Drovers of donkeys.
IMG_8022
Base camp under the southern slopes of the peak Engels.
IMG_8045
The Afghan pressure cooker, an essential thing in high-altitude base camp.
IMG_8065
Work in the kitchen.
IMG_8074
And on the horizon the Hindu Kush
IMG_8079
At night the wolves feasted
IMG_8088
Engels peak.
IMG_8109
Engels peak.
IMG_8127
Engels peak.
IMG_8129
The mountains of the peak district Engels
IMG_8198
The mountains of the peak district Engels
IMG_8294
The mountains of the peak district Engels
IMG_8344
The mountains of the peak district Engels
IMG_8132
The mountain flowers.
IMG_8272
The mountain flowers.
IMG_8279
The mountain flowers.
IMG_8284
The mountain flowers.
IMG_8704
The mountain flowers.
IMG_8187
Madina. Strong personality.
IMG_8238
The lake in the vicinity of the base camp.
IMG_8264
The lake in the vicinity of the base camp.
IMG_8280
The lake in the vicinity of the base camp.
IMG_8244
Meadow and base camp under the peak of Engels.
IMG_8273
Meadow and base camp under the peak of Engels.
IMG_8309
Pass (4750 m).
IMG_8324
Pass (4750 m).
IMG_8361
At the peak of Engels bad weather.
IMG_8443
At the peak of Engels bad weather.
IMG_8425
Girls from the summer pastures.
IMG_8426
Girls from the summer pastures.
IMG_8434
Girls from the summer pastures.
IMG_8662
Girls from the summer pastures.
IMG_8535
The Village Inew.
IMG_8536
The Village Inew.
IMG_8548
The Hindu Kush
IMG_8632
The Hindu Kush
IMG_8557
The valley of the river Panj.Wrang.
IMG_8562
In base camp under the peak of Karl Marx.
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In base camp under the peak of Karl Marx.
IMG_8584
In base camp under the peak of Karl Marx.
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In base camp under the peak of Karl Marx.
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I The first time Karl Marx peak, we saw this.
IMG_8613
Karl Marx peak to the South.
IMG_8708
Karl Marx peak to the South.
IMG_8782
Karl Marx peak to the South.
IMG_8667
Edelweiss.
IMG_8678
A sacred place.
IMG_8690
Teresken.
IMG_8744
Room. Summer pasture.
IMG_8733
People from the summer pastures.
IMG_8770
People from the summer pastures.
IMG_8772
People from the summer pastures.
IMG_8737
People from the summer pastures. Bek.
IMG_8738
People from the summer pastures.
IMG_8739
People from the summer pastures.
IMG_8773
People from the summer pastures.
IMG_8740
People from the summer pastures.
IMG_8752
Evening riding on a donkey.
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Evening riding on a donkey.
IMG_8780
Evening meeting.The plans for tomorrow.
IMG_8797
The Pamir path.
IMG_8813
The Wakhan people.
IMG_8815
The Wakhan people.
IMG_8817
The Wakhan people. Zarbash.
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The Wakhan people. Bahtovar.
IMG_8827
The Wakhan people. Nazri.
IMG_8858
To the East.
IMG_8889
The Afghan Bank of the river Pamir.
IMG_8892
On the Khargush pass.
IMG_8899
Khargush Pass.4344 M.
IMG_8908
The lake.Khargush Pass.4344 M.
IMG_8914
Bulunkul.
IMG_8915
Bulunkul.
IMG_8916
Bulunkul.
IMG_8917
Bulunkul.
IMG_8925
Bulunkul.
IMG_8927
Bulunkul.
IMG_8929
Bulunkul.
IMG_8943
Bulunkul.
IMG_8944
Bulunkul.
IMG_8953
Bulunkul.
IMG_8963
Yashilkul.
IMG_8969
Yashilkul.
IMG_9162
Alichur.
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On the way home.
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On the way home.
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On the way home.
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On the way home.
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On the way home.
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The last day of the trip.17.07.2016.

Anyone interested who wants to visit the area. I am pleased to share the information collected.

foto. Sharipov.A.

Kisldangi

4 South Alichur ridge is situated on the South of Pamir, on the left share of the river Alichur. The total length is about 150km. The river adjoins 3 km to Sharhdarian ridge. The highest pick is Kisildangr mountain (5706m). Significant spurs adjoin to Bakchigir ridge (35km) and to Bachor ridge (25km). The slope is covered with highland desert plans. There is a nival (relating to regions of perpetual snow). Landscape on the altitude 4200-4500m. Snow line on the north is on the altitude 4900-5150m, on the south-4900-5300m. Total area of glaciers is 68 square km. There areabout to passes with automobile lines and routes in this ridge and in its spurs. Main route of camping lies from north (Pamir track), from South (Pamir Valley).

Kisldangi Mountain.

We climbed from the north side of koiytezek pass. One can drive to the mountain. The simplest route is through south ridge. The route is not difficult 2a-2b, snowy glacier. It will take one luminary day. Splendid sight of Eastern Pamir, Shakhdarian ridge is seen from the pick.                  SAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERASAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERASAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERASAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERASAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERASAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERASAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERADSC02589DSC02582DSC02580DSC02578DSC02573DSC02572DSC02571DSC02568

Granite Paradise

The year has already coming to an end, but I have some obligations. I need to tell something. It happened in August. I have been suggested to work as a consultant in the project “Consultancy for a feasibility study for the Pamir mountaineering and climbing school (PMCS) Khorog, Tajikistan”. The general opinion of the project is positive. We could admire communicating with people, and there are a lot of mountains and prospects. Our club did its best to use as much benefit of the trip as we could. First of all we have got acquainted with the fellow travelers from Pamir Alpine Club. We climbed up the high rocks, and I believe it will be the first step to close relations between our clubs and establishing friendship. On the other hand, it’s useful to say some words about annual music festival « The roof of the world», usually held in Khorog at the beginning of August. Three days of music and dances, a great deal of guests from all over the world brought too much impression. One could admire grandeur and magnificence of Pamir Mountains and rocks . Everyone has its own idea of paradise, but rock climbers have quite different opinion. To my mind there are few trees in their paradise, there are only steep rocks and may be beautiful hourlies waiting for them… We have visited such place in Pamir Mountains that can be called “Granite Paradise”. The first rock climbing wall we had climbed is called Tang after the name of small village Tang (narrow) its situated at the distance 37o3748.12”N 71o45’44.32”. The history of discovering this rock climbing wall is as following: American rock climber Bo White came here with rock drill and screws in…? But as for me, I had climbed up those rocks in 1987-88s when I had been working at the construction of Pamir power station. At the result we had seen several routes of the stations provided with necessary equipment for upper protection (insurance) of complexity from 4 to 7+ UIAA, being not very long, 20m each of them. There are granite rocks, convenient cracks for stoppers and kamalots, short trad routes with reliable statins. There is also one light route (50m) fully perforated by screws (4-5 UIAA). It is very pictures and admirable. Besides, there are three routes of 5-6 categories at the distance 37o38’5.27”N 71o45’19.28”E in this area per one hour strolling along the road which were marked by our friend YvoWeidmann who noted the stations and complicated districts perforated by screws as it is shown at the picture. There are also a lot of rubbles for bouldering on the large glade stretching along the massif. The next object is situated in the region of the village Bogev. The distance of this route is one rope length long. But this route is unique on the territory of Tajikistan. It is perforated by screws and its complexity reaches the 8th category in accordance with UIAA. 37o31’32.86”N”C 71o40’2, 31”E. it took us one day to climb half way of route, but it was very steep. We decided to visit it once more. As I have already mentioned, we have plenty of perspectives in future. On the whole there are a lot of rocks along the road and on the banks of the rivers Gunt and Shakhdarya as well as just in the yards of people. We also saw many beautiful hourlies at the music festival Generally speaking we have attended real granite paradise, unforgettable reminiscences! At the end of my description I want to express my gratitude to my project colleagues: to the director (manager) of Pamir Alpine ClubSaidrahmonovSharafand all his fellow travel ers from PAC for their hospitality and friendship to Judith Kloiber for best example of his efficient capacity for work, to TomislavDunderovich for giving us the opportunity to adopt European experience of climbing style.

Anatoly Sharipov, better known as Tolik

0 1Tang 2Tang 3Tang 4Tang 5Tang 6Tang 7Tang 8Tang 9Tang 10Tang 11Tang 12Tang 13Tang 14Tang 16Tang 17 bosch restaurant 18Festival 19Festival 20Festival 21Festival 22Festival 23Festival 24Festival 25Festival 26Festival 27Festival 28Festival 29Festival 30Festival 31Festival 32Festival 33 34 35 36Bogev 37Bogev 38Bogev 39Bogev 40Bogev 41Bogev 42Bogev 43Bogev 44Bogev 45Bogev 46Bogev 47Tang 48Tang 49Tang 50Tang 51Tang 52Tang 53Tang 54Tang 55Tang 56Tang 57Tang 58Tang 59Tang 60Tang 61Tang 62Tang 63Tang 64Tang 65Tang 66Tang 67Tang 69Tang 70

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Гранитный рай

Год заканчивается, а у меня задолженность .Надо обязательно рассказать. Это было в августе.

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Начнем с того что мне (Anatoly Sharipov, better known as Tolik)предложили поработать консультантом в проекте MSDSP под названием CONSULTANCY FOR A FEASIBILITY STUDY FOR THE PAMIR MOUNTAINEERING AND CLIMBING SCHOOL (PMCS) «консультации для технико-экономического обоснования памирской школы альпинизма и скалолазания (PMCS) Хорог,Таджикистан». Что можно сказать, общее впечатление от проекта позитивное – есть люди, есть горы, есть перспективы. Но мы (Клуб) постарались извлечь из возможности поехать на Памир максимум пользы. Итак первое это Люди, мы познакомились с ребятами из Памирского альпинистского клуба(PAC), вместе полазали по скалам, я думаю это станет началом хорошей дружбы между нашими клубами. Также надо упомянуть ежегодный музыкальный фестиваль «Крыша мира» который проходит в Хороге обычно в начале августа, три дня музыки и танцев, куча гостей со всего мира. Очень живописно и весело. Горы…..Памирские горы и скалы, вот тут подробнее .

«Гранитный рай». У каждого своё представление о райских садах, у скалолазов в раю я думаю деревьев очень мало, сплошные скалы, пышногрудые гурии думаю тоже присутствуют, там где то поджидают…..  в палатках. Но мы были в таком  месте которое мне захотелось назвать «Гранитный рай».Это здесь, у нас на Памире. Первый скалодром где мы лазали называется «Танг». Кишлак рядом называется Танг ну и скалодром стало быть тоже. Если быть совсем точным, то  37°37’48.12″N 71°45’44.32″E.История возникновения выглядит так. Некий Бо Вайт (Bo White) американский скалолаз ,появился в этих краях с перфоратором и болтами в ??? году. (На самом деле я лазал на этих скалах ещё в 1987-88 годах когда работал на строительстве Памир ГЭС 1) Результат который мы видели, это несколько маршрутов с оборудованными станциями для верхней страховки сложностью от 4 до 7+ UIAA все не очень длинные метров по 20. Скалы гранитные, есть длинные удобные трещины для стопперов и камалотов, т.е можно лазать короткие трэдовые маршруты заканчивающиеся надёжной станцией. Также один маршрут 50 м. полностью пробитый болтами не очень сложный 4-5 UIAA но очень живописный.Река 200 метров. Кроме того в этом же районе в часе ходьбы от дороги 37°38’5.27″N 71°45’19.28″E постарался и наш старый знакомый Иво Вейдман (YvoWeidmann). Он сделал три маршрута 5-6 категории, набиты станции и некоторые проблемные  участки пробиты болтами,что хорошо видно на рисунке. Тут же на большой поляне тянущейся вдоль всего массива очень много валунов для боулдеринга .Следующий объект находится в районе кишлака Богев ,там есть только один маршрут длинной в одну верёвку зато какой. Возможно единственный на территории Таджикистана ,пробитый болтами маршрут 8 категории сложности по UIAA. 37°31’32.86″N «С 71°40’2.31″E. Полазали, только один день. Пролезли половину. Очень круто! Думаем обязательно приехать ещё. Как я уже говорил, перспективы тоже есть. Вообще скал очень много, есть прямо у дороги, есть по берегу Гунта и Шахдары, есть даже кое у кого прямо во дворе. А на фестивале мы видели целую «дивизию» тех самых пышногрудых гурий .Одним словом гранитный рай.

В конце хочется поблагодарить коллег по проекту: Директора  PACСаидрахмонова Шарафа и всех ребят из PAC за дружбу и гостеприимство. Юдит Клойбер(Judith Kloiber) за отличный пример эффективной работоспособности. Томислава Дундеровича (Tomislav Dunderovic) за возможность перенять опыт европейского стиля восхождений.

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