On January 22, at the request of «Babylon» our team went to the Pamirs. We returned home on January 29. Hurray!
Driver. Maryam Sharipova. I specifically put the driver first on the team. It is from her skill, courage, endurance and quick response, our lives depended on each of the 1500 kilometers that we drove during this trip.
Head. Climber. Anatoly Sharipov. The aim of the visit was to determine the possibility of access in the winter on one of the stations.
Climber. Vali Inoyatov. Reliable partner for climbing. Can you describe the process of travel and all travel on the Pamir in winter, the scientific term «stochastic» i.e. random, depending on many random factors: weather, avalanches, rock falls, road condition, from those who are on the road rides, the water level in the Gunt and Panj, and a lot more from what. The result and impressions are also impossible to predict. We need to go, look and feel everything personally. Our opinion. Very beautiful and very extreme! See the photo.
Нашим друзьям связистам! Для нас это спорт, хобби, а для них это суровые трудовые будни!
22 января по заданию компании «Вавилон» наша команда выехала на Памир. 29 января мы вернулись домой. Ура!
Водитель. Марьям Шарипова. Я специально поставил водителя первым в команде. Именно от её мастерства, смелости, выдержки и быстроты реакции зависела наша жизнь на каждом из 1500 километров, которые мы проехали за эту поездку.
Руководитель. Альпинист. Шарипов Анатолий. Чем руководил? Вообще поездкой и ещё надо было определить возможность доступа, зимой, на одну из станций связи.
Альпинист. Иноятов Вали. Надёжный, проверенный товарищ по связке.
Можно охарактеризовать процесс поездки и вообще путешествия на Памире зимой научным термином «стохастический» т.е. случайный, зависящий от многих случайных факторов: погоды, лавин, камнепадов, состояния дороги, от тех кто по этой дороге едет, уровня воды в Гунте и Пяндже, и много ещё от чего. Результат и впечатления тоже предсказать не возможно. Надо ехать, смотреть и ощущать всё лично. Наше мнение. Очень красиво и очень экстремально! Посмотрите фото.
10.08.2018. Team climbers Club «AGBA» in the composition of the
Anatoly Sharipov head of the ascent.
Vali Inoyatov Climber.
Robert John Climber. Made the ascent to the mountain «PIK Karl Marx» (6700) on the West ridge (route of Ntmscverize) 4B grade of difficulty . Adventures in the Pamirs are always diverse, and mountaineering, of course, is the basis of our expeditions, but he can not always argue with the power of random impressions and circumstances. It all started very difficult. After all, or after the main adventure, a trip along the Pamir highway, 800 km, 32 hours on the road(car breakdowns, posts, unplanned stops) we arrived in Wrang (Ishkashim district of GBAO).Wrang is a very beautiful place, inhabited by nice people. We have a lot of friends there, and there are always people who sincerely want to help. But this people, and here is animals. In one word, when are we all prepared to leave and were ready to go to the mountains, we escaped from the donkey. We ourselves were not ready to carry the entire load to camp 3800 had to delay the start by one day. We decided to explore the Buddhist temple and the surrounding area.We are of course not for the first time. Therefore, not limited to surface inspection. Decided to explore the home of monks of the monastery from the inside. About the construction of the dwellings themselves. To dig such a cave is not difficult. Rock conglomerate, medium-sized boulders in Sandstone. Vykovyrivat easy, you need some type of tool, and let’s pick a hut, can be folded and the outer wall of the removed stones. Throw the surplus down. You can build, but how to live? This I do not know. Mountains without forests, on the banks of the river so shrubs, no firewood, and the winter is not warm. Ah, perhaps, on the they and the monks to tolerate.It’s okay, we had time. And the donkey can be understood, to have fun with friends in the neighboring village or to drag bauls uphill, and what would you choose? It would not be nice to climb monks in the monastery and to swim in the border river, but we had to start. With a delay of one day we went to the first camp 3800. Camp 3800 is located in a very beautiful place, bushes green lawns, only the roar from the waterfalls and glacial streams, which you hear constantly, reminds you that you are already in the highlands. Acclimatization began here.Acclimatization is a serious thing, it is important not to overestimate your strength. We used a tactic called «saw teeth». The meaning of this tactic is that, organizing another high-altitude camp, the first time we go up there only to visit, bring food, equipment, fuel, but do not spend the night, go down to spend the night in the previous camp. This tactic always gives a good result, we almost » ill » once in the camp 5300, and then everything was without problems and in the camp 5900(assault), and above on the mountain we felt quite tolerable. So, we gradually organized four camps on the mountain. 1-3800, 2-4300, 3-5300, 4-5900.
Route itself. We are not the first time on this mountain, so we had the experience and the opportunity to make an analysis and choose the right path.
What’s ‘correct’? The book » school of mountaineering «has a Chapter called»the Beauty and logic of the climbing route.» In this Chapter, much of the focus is on ridge routes, and what it says is, » on the crest, there is little chance of going astray: the General and detailed orientation is relatively simple. There are unlikely to rock falls and avalanches, snow cornices are clearly visible, therefore, less opportunity to get into a dangerous situation. Paths along the ridges have the least steepness, technical difficulties on them are minimal for this mountain. To climb the ridge is interesting — a good overview, the world opens widely, terrain and work on it a variety. Ridge routes attract climbers with a combination of logic, optimality and beauty». Here we chose the route of «Nemsveridze» pass Nishar on the West ridge 4B grade of difficulty. In General, many routes have been laid on this Mountain, mainly along the Northern wall, complex sports lines, all of them were laid during the Soviet times and exhibited at the Union Championships ( a separate topic).
But I want to stay on one «route» on the South –Western slope. This route is often used recently, which is a sin to conceal and we were last year there jerked, well enough mind to turn back. With all the super, simple way. But head over to the long snow slopes with them sticking out of the seracs ready to shoot at any moment the ice collapse or just an avalanche, which is not even audible, a large number of cracks, in the afternoon, the whole soft slope on the sun and becomes even more dangerous. This route still will show themselves (well, if not corpses).
Let’s return to our route. The beginning of the ice wall of about 40 meters and then traverse another ice wall of 60 meters and then traverse again and 5900 camp, after camp road on the ridge, a couple of difficult ice knives, bypass the gendarme and the outlet to the top of the summit tower, a small 35-40 meters bypassing the tower on the right on the shelf and coming out on top. For insurance used ice screws (mostly did eyelets on the descent). Along the ridge there are often traces of those who’ve been here before, sites for tents and other small items.
One finding struck us with its tragedy. Torn tent «Pamirka» tin can with carefully Packed cigarettes and Primus «bumblebee» which has a release date of 1979. It looks like someone’s gone one way. Perhaps, who knows, what’s the matter? I would be grateful for the information.
Top. The top is the place where all the paths lead only down. A bronze bust of Marx made in ‘ 69. A plaque with a quote calling to change the world. Five flags on bamboo sticks left by the Iranian expedition were found on the top. Also a package of chocolates with a sticker of the Polish club(www.skpb.lodz.pl ), they came up here in 17 year. Everything is in excellent condition, on top there is no much snow, it takes a strong wind that blows constantly, because the height of almost 7 km. Descent on the way up. The descent of the difficulties is not. Climbing from camp 5900 started at 6 am to the top came out at 15 o’clock, the camp at 5900 returned with lanterns at 21 o’clock, the result of «walking» 15 hours. I don’t know if this world has changed while we were walking on the Mountain, but we have changed a lot, it is always so. Mountain she always makes us better, for this and mountaineering!
In honor of the year of tourism development and traditional national crafts in Tajikistan.
Social organization of Mountain sports Club «AGBA» in the summer of 2018 plans to hold mountaineering expedition to Shakhadra ridge of the Pamir.
The main purpose of the expedition. Climbing the mountain «PIK Karl Marx» 6700м «route on the West ridge» 4B.
Time. Climbing season in this area lasts from July 10 to August 30. The exact dates of the expedition are to be determined.
Members of the expedition. Theoretically take part in the expedition on the rights of the member of team of «AGBA» can any citizen of Tajikistan. But in order to become a member of the team must pass preliminary training in the Club. (we therefore declare for a long time before, to have time to prepare). Foreign nationals can also take part in expeditions on terms that will be adopted in the preparation process.
To learn more about the expedition and about the possibility of your participation you can contact the Club.
The Muksu river originates from glaciers Fedchenko and Big Saukdara. This is one of those places that are on the «edge of the world». This year our team was fortunate enough to visit in the area. Our journey started in the village Depar, Rajskogo district and then along the Ridge of Peter the great through the pass, Belcando 3339 m, valley Sugran, pass Irget 1B 4400м (Irgy,Redhead,Roundabout) pass Tamasha 3600m, valley Hadarcha. This route is used by climbers to get to the base camp «Moskvin’s glade» under peak I. Somoni. Because of fresh snow on the passes, we returned back along the trail running along the right Bank of the Muksu river, on the road of the gold seekers. Here it is necessary to add! This way objectively dangerous path of constantly falling stones, sometimes the road disappears in the case of bad weather not passable. Obviously when the earlier, the valley was inhabited along the river Muksu often come across almost vanishing traces of human habitations, bridges, and trails. The area is very beautiful and interesting, but accessible only for well prepared tourists.
This tracking was attended by Maryam Sharipova,Anatoliy Sharipov, Nicolai Nomerotsky, Simon Krylov.
Photo; Anatoliy Sharipov, Nicolai Nomerotsky,
Addition to pictures 27 and 31 House Gursky.
House Gursky. A story with a sad end. In the 80-ies of the last century, the «a» named Nicholas Gursky decided to save humanity or the part coming from the nuclear end of the world new flood and so on. Of divinely Inspired books, he concluded that Sugran is the place where he sailed away on Noah’s ark. He attracted people, especially women with difficult fate. In one of the winters he went to Moscow to write a book, and Sugran left one woman with two boys 6 and 11 years, they had a goat but it ran off. They remained without food. As soon as it became a little warmer, tried to reach out to people, but died during the journey The bodies were discovered by helicopter pilots flying over the pass Belcando. The story of the community «New ark» ended.
In early July of 2017 Club Team «AGBA» in the Anatoly Sharipov, Simon Krylov , Ramit Senjapov passed on the route.
Jelondy, valley Tuzumtaykul.( The numbers correspond to the days on the route)
2.3.Pass 4291 M. lake Turumtaykul 4202 m. (day of Rest)
4.River valley Duzakhdara South.
5.The valley of the river Shahdara , Javshangoz.
6.7.River valley Wiring.
Pass Wrang 5067м river valley Wnucut.
9.The valley of the Panj river (Wakhan) the village Vrang.
The trekking program was conceived as acclimatization. The route passed without incident for 9 days.. At the end of the campaign was an attempt to climb PIK Karl Marx 6700м with glacier Nishgar. Unfortunately, climbing, for objective reasons, had to interrupt.. the Team reached an altitude of 6100m.
Outcome: passed the tracking interesting and made a deep exploration of the route of ascent to the peak of Karl Marx.