Архив метки: Pamir

Северные отроги Хребта Петра I. Долина реки Муксу.

Северные отроги Хребта Петра I. Долина реки Муксу.

Река Муксу берёт своё начало из ледников Федченко и Большой Саукдара. Это одно из тех мест которые находятся на «краю света». В этом году нашей команде посчастливилось вновь побывать в этом районе. Наш путь начался в кишлаке Деепшар Лахшкого района и далее вдоль Хребта Петра Первого через  перевалы Белькандоу  3339 м, долина Сугран, перевал Иргет 1Б 4400м (Иргай,Рыжий,Обходной) перевал Тамаша 3600м, долина Хадырша. Этот маршрут используют альпинисты для того чтобы попасть в базовый лагерь «Поляна Москвина» под пиком И.Сомони.По причине свежего снега на перевалах, возвращались обратно мы по тропе идущей по правому берегу реки Муксу, по дороге золото-мойщиков. Здесь обязательно надо добавить! Этот путь объективно опасен, тропа постоянно пробивается камнями, местами исчезает  и в случае плохой погоды не проходима. Одним словом не советуем. Очевидно  когда то раньше, долина была населена, вдоль реки Муксу часто попадаются почти исчезающие следы человеческого жилья, мостов и троп. Район очень красив и интересен, но доступен только для хорошо подготовленных туристов.

В поход ходили Шарипова М.рук. Номероцкий Н. Крылов С. Шарипов А.

00
Наш путь на карте Таджикистана.
001
Дорога на Восток.
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Дорога на Восток.
002
Река Вахш.
003
Здесь из слияния рек Кызылсу и Муксу рождается река Сурхоб.
004
Фото перед выходом в горы.Нас провожает Учкун и его семья.
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Растения Памира.
006
Долина реки Муксу.
007
Ущелье Иргай.
008
Ущелье Иргай.
009
Кишлак Кандоу.
010
Растения Памира.
012
Отдых в пути.
013
13. Долина реки Муксу. Кишлаки Мук и Депшар (Девшахр).
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Подъём на перевал Белькандоу.

Фото: Номероцкий Н. Шарипов А. 015 016 017 018 019 020 021 022 023 024 025 026 027 028 029 030 031 032 033 034 035 036 037 038 039 040 041 042 043 044 045 046 047 048 049 050 051 052 053 054 055 056 057 058 060 061 062 063 064 065 066 067 068 069 070 071 072 073 074 075 076 077 078 079 080 082 083 084 085 087 088 089 090 091 092 093 094 095 096 097 098 099 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 121 122 123

Jelandy-Wrang

In early July of 2017 Club Team «AGBA» in the Anatoly Sharipov, Simon Krylov , Ramit Senjapov  passed on the route.

  1. Jelondy, valley Tuzumtaykul.( The numbers correspond to the days on the route)

2.3.Pass 4291 M. lake Turumtaykul 4202 m. (day of Rest)

4.River valley Duzakhdara South.

5.The valley of the river Shahdara , Javshangoz.

6.7.River valley Wiring.

  1. Pass Wrang 5067м river valley Wnucut.

9.The valley of the Panj river (Wakhan) the village Vrang.

The trekking program was conceived as acclimatization. The route passed without incident for 9 days.. At the end of the campaign was an attempt to climb PIK Karl Marx 6700м with glacier Nishgar. Unfortunately, climbing, for objective reasons, had to interrupt.. the Team reached an altitude of 6100m.

Outcome: passed the tracking interesting and made a deep exploration of the route of ascent to the peak of Karl Marx.

Our route on the map of Tajikistan. Наш путь на карте Таджикистана.
Our route on the map of Tajikistan.
Jelondy. The beginning of the path. Джеланды. Начало пути.
Jelondy. The beginning of the path.
2.Camp in the valley Tuzumtaykul. Лагерь в долине Тузумтайкуль.
2. Camp in the valley Tuzumtaykul.
3
The Plants Of The Pamirs. Растения Памира.
4
Pamir.
5
Camp in the valley Tuzumtaykul. Not far away the homes of local residents on summer pastures. Лагерь в долине Тузумтайкуль. Неподалеку летовка -жилище памирцев на летних пастбищах.
6
Pass 4291м. The valley Tuzumtaykul. Перевал 4291м.Долина Тузумтайкуль.
7
7. Lake Turumtaykul 4202 m.The view from the pass 4291м.
8
Camp on the shore of lake Turumtaykul
9
The Plants Of The Pamirs.
10
Lake Turumtaykul
11
The Plants Of The Pamirs.
12
Camp on the shore of lake Turumtaykul.
13
Lake Turumtaykul
14
The Plants Of The Pamirs.
15
Lake Turumtaykul
16
Camp in the valley of the river Duzakhdara South.
17
In the way.
18
The Plants Of The Pamirs.
19
So we saw the peaks of Marx and Engels for the first time
20
The ruins of the fortress Javshangoz.
21
The Plants Of The Pamirs.
22
A modern inscription in the fortress.
23
Valley Wirang
24
PIK Karl Marx view of the valley Wirang.
25
The Plants Of The Pamirs.
26
Camp before the pass Wrang.
27
The ascent to the pass Wrong.
28
The ascent to the pass Wrong.
29
Pass Wrang 5067м.
30
The descent from the pass Wrang.
31
The descent from the pass Wrang.
32
The descent from the pass Wrang.
33
The Plants Of The Pamirs.
34
The descent from the pass Wrang.
35
In the valley of Wnucut.
36
In the valley of Wnucut.
37
The Plants Of The Pamirs.
38
In the valley of Wnucut.
39
In the valley of Wnucut.
40
Our friend Zarbali.
41
In the valley of Wnucut.
42
The valley of the Panj river (Wakhan) Wrang.
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The valley of the Panj river (Wakhan) Wrang.
44
Buddhist temple.
45
Pamir gems.
46
The path to the top of the valley Nishar.
47
The path to the top of the valley Nishar.
48
The path to the top of the valley Nishar.
49
Camp on the way to glacier Nishgar.
50
The Plants Of The Pamirs.
51
Camp on the way to glacier Nishgar.
52
Ramit.
53
Camp on the glacier Nishgar 5100 m.
54
View of the summit from the camp.
55
In the camp.
56
Morning, ascent.
57
Morning, ascent.
58
Morning, ascent.
59
During the ascent.
60
During the ascent.
61
Peak Karl Marx and pass Nishgar Central 6370м.
61a
Peak Karl Marx and pass Nishgar Central 6370м.
62
The route of ascent.
63
Pass Nishgar from the South 5650m..
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Simon and Ramit.
65
The last camp of the expedition 2017.
66
The Plants Of The Pamirs.
67
Pamir gems.
68
The descent into the valley.
69
Elements of the Mountain civilization
70
The Wakhan valley.

The route to the Fedchenko glacier.Equipment for means of tracking and climbing.

Equipment  for means of tracking and climbing.

Name. Description. Right quantity.
Shoes. https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/la-sportiva-karakorum-evo-gtx-shoes-green-natural-green-natural-44-5/ Pair
Sandals for crossing the river. https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/teva-terra-fi-lite-sandal-guell-black-grey-us8/ 1
Jacket warm. https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/mountain-equipment-dewline-jacket-cosmos-s/ 1
Jacket storm. Size storm jacket should be such that it can be worn over a warm jacket(2)

https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/salewa-puez-gtx-2l-jacket-black-out-s/

1
Storm pants https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/mountain-equipment-karakorum-pants-black-black-m/ 1
The jacket of fleece or Polartec 1
Pants fleece or Polartec 1
Thermal underwear 2
Socks Minimum quantity: 3 pairs
Beanie warm Beanie without visor tightly covering the ears, with the possibility of dressing under a helmet. 1
Balaclava https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/buff-balaclava-merino-wool-buff-denim/ 1
Gloves fleece or Polartec 1
Gloves https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/outdoor-research-highcamp-glove-black-s/ 1
Gaiter https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/outdoor-research-verglas-gaiters-abyss-abyss-s/ 1
Glasses https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/alpina-sibiria-glacier-eyewear-white-green-green-mirror/ 1
Helmet https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/petzl-elios-climbing-helmet-gelb-1/ 1
Harness https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/petzl-tour-hochtourengurt-s-m/ 1
Ice-axe https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/grivel-g1-ice-axe-58cm/

Long 55- 70 см

1
Crampons https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/grivel-g10-wide-new-matic-001/

Attaching Crampons should be compatible with shoes.

1
Icescrew https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/petzl-laser-speed-light-ice-screw-10cm/  17-21 см 1
Ascender https://www.petzl.com/INT/en/Sport/Ascenders/TIBLOC#.WCrBg1OfdjY 2
Belay device https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/petzl-reverso-4-belay-device-apfelgruen/ 1
Carabiner https://www.petzl.com/INT/en/Sport/Carabiners-and-quickdraws/Am-D#.WCrB_lOfdjY 5
The Cord 6мм https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/tendon-cord-005/ 6мм 12 m
Sleeping Bag comfort temperature-12 С 1
Sleeping Pad Possible overnight on the ice

. https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/therm-a-rest-prolite-plus-sleeping-pad-small/

1
Tableware Mug,deep plate (light unbreakable material),spoon,small knife.
Thermos 1.0 L https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/salewa-thermo-lite-thermos-1-0-l-cool-grey/ 1
Headlamp https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/petzl-tikka-xp-headlamp-schwarz/ 1
Backpack A volume of 60 liters

https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/deuter-aircontact-75plus10-backpack-arctic-navy/

1

In the description reference is made to specific models, you can choose things to your taste, it is important to have the same characteristics as the samples.

The route to the glaciers of the Central Pamir.Car part of the way.

rrrrrrrr

Car part of the way. The main points
Car part of the way. The main points
1-0-dushanbe-kalai-khumb
Dushanbe-Kalai-Khumb
1-1-kalai-khumb
Kalai-Khumb
1-2-kalai-khumb
Kalai-Khumb
1-3-kalai-khumb-rushan
Kalai Khumb — Rushan
1-4-bartang
Bartang
1-5-bartang-yapshorv
Bartang Yapshorv
1-7-bartang-yapshorv
Bartang Yapshorv
1-10-bartang-roshorv
Bartang Roshorv
1-12-bartang
Bartang
1-13-bartang-nisur
Bartang Nisur
1-14-bartang
Bartang
1-15-bartang-savnob
Bartang Savnob
1-16-bartang-savnob-fortress
Bartang Savnob Fortress
1-17-bartang
Bartang
1-18-bartang
Bartang
1-19-bartang-pasor
Bartang Pasor
1-20-vanch-poimazar
Vanch Poimazar
1-21-vanch
Vanch

The peaks of Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels from the South. Approaches and base camp.

Photo report of the Club’s team of «AGBA» about the expedition in Shadra ridge with a visit to the base camp under the peaks of Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels.

 

Task — familiarity with the district, exploration roads, trails, sites for camps. Contacts with the local population, providing services of guest houses and the delivery of goods to base camp.

 

Team: Sharipov, Anatoly — Director, chef, photographer, communication. Maryam Sharipova — driver.

 

Automotive part was held in the following paragraphs. Dushanbe, Khorog, kalaihumb, Ishkashim, Vrang, Langar lane, Khargush, Bulunkul, Yashilkul, Dzhelandy, Khorog, Dushanbe (Pamir the small ring).

 

The pedestrian part. Langar, base camp(3967м) peak Engels, Wrang, Iniv, base camp(3870 m) peak of Karl Marx.

 

The tasks carried out.

 

Dear fellow hikers-climbers, just travelers!

 

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Garage No. 21 Start 24 June 2016.
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The gates of the city of Kulyab.
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Waterfall . Highway M 41.
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Rubob.
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Darvaz. The Gate Of The Pamir.
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Highway M 41.
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Highway M 41.
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Highway M 41.
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Highway M 41.
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Highway M 41.
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Highway M 41.
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Highway M 41.
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Highway M 41.
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Highway M 41.
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Highway M 41.
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Holiday «Vahdat» (Day of reconciliation) Khorog.
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Holiday «Vahdat» (Day of reconciliation) Khorog.
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Классический памирский интерьер.
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Beauty gathered on the holiday.
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Ishkashim travel.
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Ishkashim –Langar.
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Ishkashim –Langar.
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Ishkashim –Langar.
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Ishkashim -Langar.The source of mineral water.
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Guest house. Yadgar. Langar.
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Guest house. Yadgar. Langar.
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Guest house. Yadgar. Langar.
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Langar.The petroglyphs.
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Langar.The petroglyphs.
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Langar.The petroglyphs.
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Drovers of donkeys.
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Base camp under the southern slopes of the peak Engels.
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The Afghan pressure cooker, an essential thing in high-altitude base camp.
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Work in the kitchen.
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And on the horizon the Hindu Kush
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At night the wolves feasted
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Engels peak.
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Engels peak.
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Engels peak.
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The mountains of the peak district Engels
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The mountains of the peak district Engels
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The mountains of the peak district Engels
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The mountains of the peak district Engels
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The mountain flowers.
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The mountain flowers.
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The mountain flowers.
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The mountain flowers.
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The mountain flowers.
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Madina. Strong personality.
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The lake in the vicinity of the base camp.
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The lake in the vicinity of the base camp.
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The lake in the vicinity of the base camp.
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Meadow and base camp under the peak of Engels.
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Meadow and base camp under the peak of Engels.
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Pass (4750 m).
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Pass (4750 m).
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At the peak of Engels bad weather.
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At the peak of Engels bad weather.
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Girls from the summer pastures.
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Girls from the summer pastures.
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Girls from the summer pastures.
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Girls from the summer pastures.
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The Village Inew.
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The Village Inew.
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The Hindu Kush
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The Hindu Kush
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The valley of the river Panj.Wrang.
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In base camp under the peak of Karl Marx.
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In base camp under the peak of Karl Marx.
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In base camp under the peak of Karl Marx.
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In base camp under the peak of Karl Marx.
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I The first time Karl Marx peak, we saw this.
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Karl Marx peak to the South.
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Karl Marx peak to the South.
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Karl Marx peak to the South.
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Edelweiss.
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A sacred place.
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Teresken.
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Room. Summer pasture.
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People from the summer pastures.
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People from the summer pastures.
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People from the summer pastures.
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People from the summer pastures. Bek.
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People from the summer pastures.
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People from the summer pastures.
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People from the summer pastures.
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People from the summer pastures.
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Evening riding on a donkey.
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Evening riding on a donkey.
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Evening meeting.The plans for tomorrow.
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The Pamir path.
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The Wakhan people.
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The Wakhan people.
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The Wakhan people. Zarbash.
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The Wakhan people. Bahtovar.
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The Wakhan people. Nazri.
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To the East.
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The Afghan Bank of the river Pamir.
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On the Khargush pass.
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Khargush Pass.4344 M.
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The lake.Khargush Pass.4344 M.
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Bulunkul.
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Bulunkul.
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Bulunkul.
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Bulunkul.
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Bulunkul.
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Bulunkul.
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Bulunkul.
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Bulunkul.
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Bulunkul.
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Bulunkul.
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Yashilkul.
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Yashilkul.
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Alichur.
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On the way home.
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On the way home.
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On the way home.
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On the way home.
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On the way home.
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The last day of the trip.17.07.2016.

Anyone interested who wants to visit the area. I am pleased to share the information collected.

foto. Sharipov.A.

Kisldangi

4 South Alichur ridge is situated on the South of Pamir, on the left share of the river Alichur. The total length is about 150km. The river adjoins 3 km to Sharhdarian ridge. The highest pick is Kisildangr mountain (5706m). Significant spurs adjoin to Bakchigir ridge (35km) and to Bachor ridge (25km). The slope is covered with highland desert plans. There is a nival (relating to regions of perpetual snow). Landscape on the altitude 4200-4500m. Snow line on the north is on the altitude 4900-5150m, on the south-4900-5300m. Total area of glaciers is 68 square km. There areabout to passes with automobile lines and routes in this ridge and in its spurs. Main route of camping lies from north (Pamir track), from South (Pamir Valley).

Kisldangi Mountain.

We climbed from the north side of koiytezek pass. One can drive to the mountain. The simplest route is through south ridge. The route is not difficult 2a-2b, snowy glacier. It will take one luminary day. Splendid sight of Eastern Pamir, Shakhdarian ridge is seen from the pick.                  SAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERASAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERASAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERASAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERASAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERASAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERASAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERADSC02589DSC02582DSC02580DSC02578DSC02573DSC02572DSC02571DSC02568

Granite Paradise

The year has already coming to an end, but I have some obligations. I need to tell something. It happened in August. I have been suggested to work as a consultant in the project “Consultancy for a feasibility study for the Pamir mountaineering and climbing school (PMCS) Khorog, Tajikistan”. The general opinion of the project is positive. We could admire communicating with people, and there are a lot of mountains and prospects. Our club did its best to use as much benefit of the trip as we could. First of all we have got acquainted with the fellow travelers from Pamir Alpine Club. We climbed up the high rocks, and I believe it will be the first step to close relations between our clubs and establishing friendship. On the other hand, it’s useful to say some words about annual music festival « The roof of the world», usually held in Khorog at the beginning of August. Three days of music and dances, a great deal of guests from all over the world brought too much impression. One could admire grandeur and magnificence of Pamir Mountains and rocks . Everyone has its own idea of paradise, but rock climbers have quite different opinion. To my mind there are few trees in their paradise, there are only steep rocks and may be beautiful hourlies waiting for them… We have visited such place in Pamir Mountains that can be called “Granite Paradise”. The first rock climbing wall we had climbed is called Tang after the name of small village Tang (narrow) its situated at the distance 37o3748.12”N 71o45’44.32”. The history of discovering this rock climbing wall is as following: American rock climber Bo White came here with rock drill and screws in…? But as for me, I had climbed up those rocks in 1987-88s when I had been working at the construction of Pamir power station. At the result we had seen several routes of the stations provided with necessary equipment for upper protection (insurance) of complexity from 4 to 7+ UIAA, being not very long, 20m each of them. There are granite rocks, convenient cracks for stoppers and kamalots, short trad routes with reliable statins. There is also one light route (50m) fully perforated by screws (4-5 UIAA). It is very pictures and admirable. Besides, there are three routes of 5-6 categories at the distance 37o38’5.27”N 71o45’19.28”E in this area per one hour strolling along the road which were marked by our friend YvoWeidmann who noted the stations and complicated districts perforated by screws as it is shown at the picture. There are also a lot of rubbles for bouldering on the large glade stretching along the massif. The next object is situated in the region of the village Bogev. The distance of this route is one rope length long. But this route is unique on the territory of Tajikistan. It is perforated by screws and its complexity reaches the 8th category in accordance with UIAA. 37o31’32.86”N”C 71o40’2, 31”E. it took us one day to climb half way of route, but it was very steep. We decided to visit it once more. As I have already mentioned, we have plenty of perspectives in future. On the whole there are a lot of rocks along the road and on the banks of the rivers Gunt and Shakhdarya as well as just in the yards of people. We also saw many beautiful hourlies at the music festival Generally speaking we have attended real granite paradise, unforgettable reminiscences! At the end of my description I want to express my gratitude to my project colleagues: to the director (manager) of Pamir Alpine ClubSaidrahmonovSharafand all his fellow travel ers from PAC for their hospitality and friendship to Judith Kloiber for best example of his efficient capacity for work, to TomislavDunderovich for giving us the opportunity to adopt European experience of climbing style.

Anatoly Sharipov, better known as Tolik

0 1Tang 2Tang 3Tang 4Tang 5Tang 6Tang 7Tang 8Tang 9Tang 10Tang 11Tang 12Tang 13Tang 14Tang 16Tang 17 bosch restaurant 18Festival 19Festival 20Festival 21Festival 22Festival 23Festival 24Festival 25Festival 26Festival 27Festival 28Festival 29Festival 30Festival 31Festival 32Festival 33 34 35 36Bogev 37Bogev 38Bogev 39Bogev 40Bogev 41Bogev 42Bogev 43Bogev 44Bogev 45Bogev 46Bogev 47Tang 48Tang 49Tang 50Tang 51Tang 52Tang 53Tang 54Tang 55Tang 56Tang 57Tang 58Tang 59Tang 60Tang 61Tang 62Tang 63Tang 64Tang 65Tang 66Tang 67Tang 69Tang 70

topo_overview_tang_gunt