10.08.2018. Team climbers Club «AGBA» in the composition of the
Anatoly Sharipov head of the ascent.
Vali Inoyatov Climber.
Robert John Climber. Made the ascent to the mountain «PIK Karl Marx» (6700) on the West ridge (route of Ntmscverize) 4B grade of difficulty . Adventures in the Pamirs are always diverse, and mountaineering, of course, is the basis of our expeditions, but he can not always argue with the power of random impressions and circumstances. It all started very difficult. After all, or after the main adventure, a trip along the Pamir highway, 800 km, 32 hours on the road(car breakdowns, posts, unplanned stops) we arrived in Wrang (Ishkashim district of GBAO).Wrang is a very beautiful place, inhabited by nice people. We have a lot of friends there, and there are always people who sincerely want to help. But this people, and here is animals. In one word, when are we all prepared to leave and were ready to go to the mountains, we escaped from the donkey. We ourselves were not ready to carry the entire load to camp 3800 had to delay the start by one day. We decided to explore the Buddhist temple and the surrounding area.We are of course not for the first time. Therefore, not limited to surface inspection. Decided to explore the home of monks of the monastery from the inside. About the construction of the dwellings themselves. To dig such a cave is not difficult. Rock conglomerate, medium-sized boulders in Sandstone. Vykovyrivat easy, you need some type of tool, and let’s pick a hut, can be folded and the outer wall of the removed stones. Throw the surplus down. You can build, but how to live? This I do not know. Mountains without forests, on the banks of the river so shrubs, no firewood, and the winter is not warm. Ah, perhaps, on the they and the monks to tolerate.It’s okay, we had time. And the donkey can be understood, to have fun with friends in the neighboring village or to drag bauls uphill, and what would you choose? It would not be nice to climb monks in the monastery and to swim in the border river, but we had to start. With a delay of one day we went to the first camp 3800. Camp 3800 is located in a very beautiful place, bushes green lawns, only the roar from the waterfalls and glacial streams, which you hear constantly, reminds you that you are already in the highlands. Acclimatization began here.Acclimatization is a serious thing, it is important not to overestimate your strength. We used a tactic called «saw teeth». The meaning of this tactic is that, organizing another high-altitude camp, the first time we go up there only to visit, bring food, equipment, fuel, but do not spend the night, go down to spend the night in the previous camp. This tactic always gives a good result, we almost » ill » once in the camp 5300, and then everything was without problems and in the camp 5900(assault), and above on the mountain we felt quite tolerable. So, we gradually organized four camps on the mountain. 1-3800, 2-4300, 3-5300, 4-5900.
Route itself. We are not the first time on this mountain, so we had the experience and the opportunity to make an analysis and choose the right path.
What’s ‘correct’? The book » school of mountaineering «has a Chapter called»the Beauty and logic of the climbing route.» In this Chapter, much of the focus is on ridge routes, and what it says is, » on the crest, there is little chance of going astray: the General and detailed orientation is relatively simple. There are unlikely to rock falls and avalanches, snow cornices are clearly visible, therefore, less opportunity to get into a dangerous situation. Paths along the ridges have the least steepness, technical difficulties on them are minimal for this mountain. To climb the ridge is interesting — a good overview, the world opens widely, terrain and work on it a variety. Ridge routes attract climbers with a combination of logic, optimality and beauty». Here we chose the route of «Nemsveridze» pass Nishar on the West ridge 4B grade of difficulty. In General, many routes have been laid on this Mountain, mainly along the Northern wall, complex sports lines, all of them were laid during the Soviet times and exhibited at the Union Championships ( a separate topic).
But I want to stay on one «route» on the South –Western slope. This route is often used recently, which is a sin to conceal and we were last year there jerked, well enough mind to turn back. With all the super, simple way. But head over to the long snow slopes with them sticking out of the seracs ready to shoot at any moment the ice collapse or just an avalanche, which is not even audible, a large number of cracks, in the afternoon, the whole soft slope on the sun and becomes even more dangerous. This route still will show themselves (well, if not corpses).
Let’s return to our route. The beginning of the ice wall of about 40 meters and then traverse another ice wall of 60 meters and then traverse again and 5900 camp, after camp road on the ridge, a couple of difficult ice knives, bypass the gendarme and the outlet to the top of the summit tower, a small 35-40 meters bypassing the tower on the right on the shelf and coming out on top. For insurance used ice screws (mostly did eyelets on the descent). Along the ridge there are often traces of those who’ve been here before, sites for tents and other small items.
One finding struck us with its tragedy. Torn tent «Pamirka» tin can with carefully Packed cigarettes and Primus «bumblebee» which has a release date of 1979. It looks like someone’s gone one way. Perhaps, who knows, what’s the matter? I would be grateful for the information.
Top. The top is the place where all the paths lead only down. A bronze bust of Marx made in ‘ 69. A plaque with a quote calling to change the world. Five flags on bamboo sticks left by the Iranian expedition were found on the top. Also a package of chocolates with a sticker of the Polish club(www.skpb.lodz.pl ), they came up here in 17 year. Everything is in excellent condition, on top there is no much snow, it takes a strong wind that blows constantly, because the height of almost 7 km. Descent on the way up. The descent of the difficulties is not. Climbing from camp 5900 started at 6 am to the top came out at 15 o’clock, the camp at 5900 returned with lanterns at 21 o’clock, the result of «walking» 15 hours. I don’t know if this world has changed while we were walking on the Mountain, but we have changed a lot, it is always so. Mountain she always makes us better, for this and mountaineering!
In honor of the year of tourism development and traditional national crafts in Tajikistan.
Social organization of Mountain sports Club «AGBA» in the summer of 2018 plans to hold mountaineering expedition to Shakhadra ridge of the Pamir.
The main purpose of the expedition. Climbing the mountain «PIK Karl Marx» 6700м «route on the West ridge» 4B.
Time. Climbing season in this area lasts from July 10 to August 30. The exact dates of the expedition are to be determined.
Members of the expedition. Theoretically take part in the expedition on the rights of the member of team of «AGBA» can any citizen of Tajikistan. But in order to become a member of the team must pass preliminary training in the Club. (we therefore declare for a long time before, to have time to prepare). Foreign nationals can also take part in expeditions on terms that will be adopted in the preparation process.
To learn more about the expedition and about the possibility of your participation you can contact the Club.
The Muksu river originates from glaciers Fedchenko and Big Saukdara. This is one of those places that are on the «edge of the world». This year our team was fortunate enough to visit in the area. Our journey started in the village Depar, Rajskogo district and then along the Ridge of Peter the great through the pass, Belcando 3339 m, valley Sugran, pass Irget 1B 4400м (Irgy,Redhead,Roundabout) pass Tamasha 3600m, valley Hadarcha. This route is used by climbers to get to the base camp «Moskvin’s glade» under peak I. Somoni. Because of fresh snow on the passes, we returned back along the trail running along the right Bank of the Muksu river, on the road of the gold seekers. Here it is necessary to add! This way objectively dangerous path of constantly falling stones, sometimes the road disappears in the case of bad weather not passable. Obviously when the earlier, the valley was inhabited along the river Muksu often come across almost vanishing traces of human habitations, bridges, and trails. The area is very beautiful and interesting, but accessible only for well prepared tourists.
This tracking was attended by Maryam Sharipova,Anatoliy Sharipov, Nicolai Nomerotsky, Simon Krylov.
Photo; Anatoliy Sharipov, Nicolai Nomerotsky,
Addition to pictures 27 and 31 House Gursky.
House Gursky. A story with a sad end. In the 80-ies of the last century, the «a» named Nicholas Gursky decided to save humanity or the part coming from the nuclear end of the world new flood and so on. Of divinely Inspired books, he concluded that Sugran is the place where he sailed away on Noah’s ark. He attracted people, especially women with difficult fate. In one of the winters he went to Moscow to write a book, and Sugran left one woman with two boys 6 and 11 years, they had a goat but it ran off. They remained without food. As soon as it became a little warmer, tried to reach out to people, but died during the journey The bodies were discovered by helicopter pilots flying over the pass Belcando. The story of the community «New ark» ended.
In early July of 2017 Club Team «AGBA» in the Anatoly Sharipov, Simon Krylov , Ramit Senjapov passed on the route.
Jelondy, valley Tuzumtaykul.( The numbers correspond to the days on the route)
2.3.Pass 4291 M. lake Turumtaykul 4202 m. (day of Rest)
4.River valley Duzakhdara South.
5.The valley of the river Shahdara , Javshangoz.
6.7.River valley Wiring.
Pass Wrang 5067м river valley Wnucut.
9.The valley of the Panj river (Wakhan) the village Vrang.
The trekking program was conceived as acclimatization. The route passed without incident for 9 days.. At the end of the campaign was an attempt to climb PIK Karl Marx 6700м with glacier Nishgar. Unfortunately, climbing, for objective reasons, had to interrupt.. the Team reached an altitude of 6100m.
Outcome: passed the tracking interesting and made a deep exploration of the route of ascent to the peak of Karl Marx.
4 South Alichur ridge is situated on the South of Pamir, on the left share of the river Alichur. The total length is about 150km. The river adjoins 3 km to Sharhdarian ridge. The highest pick is Kisildangr mountain (5706m). Significant spurs adjoin to Bakchigir ridge (35km) and to Bachor ridge (25km). The slope is covered with highland desert plans. There is a nival (relating to regions of perpetual snow). Landscape on the altitude 4200-4500m. Snow line on the north is on the altitude 4900-5150m, on the south-4900-5300m. Total area of glaciers is 68 square km. There areabout to passes with automobile lines and routes in this ridge and in its spurs. Main route of camping lies from north (Pamir track), from South (Pamir Valley).
We climbed from the north side of koiytezek pass. One can drive to the mountain. The simplest route is through south ridge. The route is not difficult 2a-2b, snowy glacier. It will take one luminary day. Splendid sight of Eastern Pamir, Shakhdarian ridge is seen from the pick.
The year has already coming to an end, but I have some obligations. I need to tell something. It happened in August. I have been suggested to work as a consultant in the project “Consultancy for a feasibility study for the Pamir mountaineering and climbing school (PMCS) Khorog, Tajikistan”. The general opinion of the project is positive. We could admire communicating with people, and there are a lot of mountains and prospects. Our club did its best to use as much benefit of the trip as we could. First of all we have got acquainted with the fellow travelers from Pamir Alpine Club. We climbed up the high rocks, and I believe it will be the first step to close relations between our clubs and establishing friendship. On the other hand, it’s useful to say some words about annual music festival « The roof of the world», usually held in Khorog at the beginning of August. Three days of music and dances, a great deal of guests from all over the world brought too much impression. One could admire grandeur and magnificence of Pamir Mountains and rocks . Everyone has its own idea of paradise, but rock climbers have quite different opinion. To my mind there are few trees in their paradise, there are only steep rocks and may be beautiful hourlies waiting for them… We have visited such place in Pamir Mountains that can be called “Granite Paradise”. The first rock climbing wall we had climbed is called Tang after the name of small village Tang (narrow) its situated at the distance 37o3748.12”N 71o45’44.32”. The history of discovering this rock climbing wall is as following: American rock climber Bo White came here with rock drill and screws in…? But as for me, I had climbed up those rocks in 1987-88s when I had been working at the construction of Pamir power station. At the result we had seen several routes of the stations provided with necessary equipment for upper protection (insurance) of complexity from 4 to 7+ UIAA, being not very long, 20m each of them. There are granite rocks, convenient cracks for stoppers and kamalots, short trad routes with reliable statins. There is also one light route (50m) fully perforated by screws (4-5 UIAA). It is very pictures and admirable. Besides, there are three routes of 5-6 categories at the distance 37o38’5.27”N 71o45’19.28”E in this area per one hour strolling along the road which were marked by our friend YvoWeidmann who noted the stations and complicated districts perforated by screws as it is shown at the picture. There are also a lot of rubbles for bouldering on the large glade stretching along the massif. The next object is situated in the region of the village Bogev. The distance of this route is one rope length long. But this route is unique on the territory of Tajikistan. It is perforated by screws and its complexity reaches the 8th category in accordance with UIAA. 37o31’32.86”N”C 71o40’2, 31”E. it took us one day to climb half way of route, but it was very steep. We decided to visit it once more. As I have already mentioned, we have plenty of perspectives in future. On the whole there are a lot of rocks along the road and on the banks of the rivers Gunt and Shakhdarya as well as just in the yards of people. We also saw many beautiful hourlies at the music festival Generally speaking we have attended real granite paradise, unforgettable reminiscences! At the end of my description I want to express my gratitude to my project colleagues: to the director (manager) of Pamir Alpine ClubSaidrahmonovSharafand all his fellow travel ers from PAC for their hospitality and friendship to Judith Kloiber for best example of his efficient capacity for work, to TomislavDunderovich for giving us the opportunity to adopt European experience of climbing style.