Архив метки: Pamir

The route to the Fedchenko glacier.Equipment for means of tracking and climbing.

Equipment  for means of tracking and climbing.

Name. Description. Right quantity.
Shoes. https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/la-sportiva-karakorum-evo-gtx-shoes-green-natural-green-natural-44-5/ Pair
Sandals for crossing the river. https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/teva-terra-fi-lite-sandal-guell-black-grey-us8/ 1
Jacket warm. https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/mountain-equipment-dewline-jacket-cosmos-s/ 1
Jacket storm. Size storm jacket should be such that it can be worn over a warm jacket(2)

https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/salewa-puez-gtx-2l-jacket-black-out-s/

1
Storm pants https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/mountain-equipment-karakorum-pants-black-black-m/ 1
The jacket of fleece or Polartec 1
Pants fleece or Polartec 1
Thermal underwear 2
Socks Minimum quantity: 3 pairs
Beanie warm Beanie without visor tightly covering the ears, with the possibility of dressing under a helmet. 1
Balaclava https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/buff-balaclava-merino-wool-buff-denim/ 1
Gloves fleece or Polartec 1
Gloves https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/outdoor-research-highcamp-glove-black-s/ 1
Gaiter https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/outdoor-research-verglas-gaiters-abyss-abyss-s/ 1
Glasses https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/alpina-sibiria-glacier-eyewear-white-green-green-mirror/ 1
Helmet https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/petzl-elios-climbing-helmet-gelb-1/ 1
Harness https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/petzl-tour-hochtourengurt-s-m/ 1
Ice-axe https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/grivel-g1-ice-axe-58cm/

Long 55- 70 см

1
Crampons https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/grivel-g10-wide-new-matic-001/

Attaching Crampons should be compatible with shoes.

1
Icescrew https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/petzl-laser-speed-light-ice-screw-10cm/  17-21 см 1
Ascender https://www.petzl.com/INT/en/Sport/Ascenders/TIBLOC#.WCrBg1OfdjY 2
Belay device https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/petzl-reverso-4-belay-device-apfelgruen/ 1
Carabiner https://www.petzl.com/INT/en/Sport/Carabiners-and-quickdraws/Am-D#.WCrB_lOfdjY 5
The Cord 6мм https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/tendon-cord-005/ 6мм 12 m
Sleeping Bag comfort temperature-12 С 1
Sleeping Pad Possible overnight on the ice

. https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/therm-a-rest-prolite-plus-sleeping-pad-small/

1
Tableware Mug,deep plate (light unbreakable material),spoon,small knife.
Thermos 1.0 L https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/salewa-thermo-lite-thermos-1-0-l-cool-grey/ 1
Headlamp https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/petzl-tikka-xp-headlamp-schwarz/ 1
Backpack A volume of 60 liters

https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/deuter-aircontact-75plus10-backpack-arctic-navy/

1

In the description reference is made to specific models, you can choose things to your taste, it is important to have the same characteristics as the samples.

The route to the glaciers of the Central Pamir.Car part of the way.

rrrrrrrr

Car part of the way. The main points
Car part of the way. The main points
1-0-dushanbe-kalai-khumb
Dushanbe-Kalai-Khumb
1-1-kalai-khumb
Kalai-Khumb
1-2-kalai-khumb
Kalai-Khumb
1-3-kalai-khumb-rushan
Kalai Khumb — Rushan
1-4-bartang
Bartang
1-5-bartang-yapshorv
Bartang Yapshorv
1-7-bartang-yapshorv
Bartang Yapshorv
1-10-bartang-roshorv
Bartang Roshorv
1-12-bartang
Bartang
1-13-bartang-nisur
Bartang Nisur
1-14-bartang
Bartang
1-15-bartang-savnob
Bartang Savnob
1-16-bartang-savnob-fortress
Bartang Savnob Fortress
1-17-bartang
Bartang
1-18-bartang
Bartang
1-19-bartang-pasor
Bartang Pasor
1-20-vanch-poimazar
Vanch Poimazar
1-21-vanch
Vanch

The peaks of Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels from the South. Approaches and base camp.

Photo report of the Club’s team of «AGBA» about the expedition in Shadra ridge with a visit to the base camp under the peaks of Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels.

 

Task — familiarity with the district, exploration roads, trails, sites for camps. Contacts with the local population, providing services of guest houses and the delivery of goods to base camp.

 

Team: Sharipov, Anatoly — Director, chef, photographer, communication. Maryam Sharipova — driver.

 

Automotive part was held in the following paragraphs. Dushanbe, Khorog, kalaihumb, Ishkashim, Vrang, Langar lane, Khargush, Bulunkul, Yashilkul, Dzhelandy, Khorog, Dushanbe (Pamir the small ring).

 

The pedestrian part. Langar, base camp(3967м) peak Engels, Wrang, Iniv, base camp(3870 m) peak of Karl Marx.

 

The tasks carried out.

 

Dear fellow hikers-climbers, just travelers!

 

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Garage No. 21 Start 24 June 2016.
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The gates of the city of Kulyab.
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Waterfall . Highway M 41.
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Rubob.
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Darvaz. The Gate Of The Pamir.
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Highway M 41.
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Highway M 41.
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Highway M 41.
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Highway M 41.
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Highway M 41.
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Highway M 41.
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Highway M 41.
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Highway M 41.
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Highway M 41.
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Highway M 41.
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Holiday «Vahdat» (Day of reconciliation) Khorog.
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Holiday «Vahdat» (Day of reconciliation) Khorog.
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Классический памирский интерьер.
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Beauty gathered on the holiday.
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Ishkashim travel.
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Ishkashim –Langar.
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Ishkashim –Langar.
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Ishkashim –Langar.
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Ishkashim -Langar.The source of mineral water.
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Guest house. Yadgar. Langar.
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Guest house. Yadgar. Langar.
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Guest house. Yadgar. Langar.
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Langar.The petroglyphs.
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Langar.The petroglyphs.
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Langar.The petroglyphs.
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Drovers of donkeys.
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Base camp under the southern slopes of the peak Engels.
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The Afghan pressure cooker, an essential thing in high-altitude base camp.
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Work in the kitchen.
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And on the horizon the Hindu Kush
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At night the wolves feasted
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Engels peak.
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Engels peak.
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Engels peak.
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The mountains of the peak district Engels
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The mountains of the peak district Engels
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The mountains of the peak district Engels
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The mountains of the peak district Engels
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The mountain flowers.
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The mountain flowers.
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The mountain flowers.
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The mountain flowers.
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The mountain flowers.
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Madina. Strong personality.
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The lake in the vicinity of the base camp.
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The lake in the vicinity of the base camp.
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The lake in the vicinity of the base camp.
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Meadow and base camp under the peak of Engels.
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Meadow and base camp under the peak of Engels.
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Pass (4750 m).
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Pass (4750 m).
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At the peak of Engels bad weather.
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At the peak of Engels bad weather.
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Girls from the summer pastures.
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Girls from the summer pastures.
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Girls from the summer pastures.
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Girls from the summer pastures.
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The Village Inew.
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The Village Inew.
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The Hindu Kush
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The Hindu Kush
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The valley of the river Panj.Wrang.
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In base camp under the peak of Karl Marx.
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In base camp under the peak of Karl Marx.
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In base camp under the peak of Karl Marx.
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In base camp under the peak of Karl Marx.
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I The first time Karl Marx peak, we saw this.
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Karl Marx peak to the South.
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Karl Marx peak to the South.
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Karl Marx peak to the South.
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Edelweiss.
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A sacred place.
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Teresken.
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Room. Summer pasture.
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People from the summer pastures.
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People from the summer pastures.
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People from the summer pastures.
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People from the summer pastures. Bek.
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People from the summer pastures.
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People from the summer pastures.
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People from the summer pastures.
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People from the summer pastures.
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Evening riding on a donkey.
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Evening riding on a donkey.
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Evening meeting.The plans for tomorrow.
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The Pamir path.
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The Wakhan people.
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The Wakhan people.
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The Wakhan people. Zarbash.
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The Wakhan people. Bahtovar.
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The Wakhan people. Nazri.
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To the East.
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The Afghan Bank of the river Pamir.
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On the Khargush pass.
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Khargush Pass.4344 M.
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The lake.Khargush Pass.4344 M.
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Bulunkul.
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Bulunkul.
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Bulunkul.
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Bulunkul.
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Bulunkul.
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Bulunkul.
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Bulunkul.
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Bulunkul.
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Bulunkul.
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Bulunkul.
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Yashilkul.
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Yashilkul.
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Alichur.
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On the way home.
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On the way home.
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On the way home.
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On the way home.
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On the way home.
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The last day of the trip.17.07.2016.

Anyone interested who wants to visit the area. I am pleased to share the information collected.

foto. Sharipov.A.

Kisldangi

4 South Alichur ridge is situated on the South of Pamir, on the left share of the river Alichur. The total length is about 150km. The river adjoins 3 km to Sharhdarian ridge. The highest pick is Kisildangr mountain (5706m). Significant spurs adjoin to Bakchigir ridge (35km) and to Bachor ridge (25km). The slope is covered with highland desert plans. There is a nival (relating to regions of perpetual snow). Landscape on the altitude 4200-4500m. Snow line on the north is on the altitude 4900-5150m, on the south-4900-5300m. Total area of glaciers is 68 square km. There areabout to passes with automobile lines and routes in this ridge and in its spurs. Main route of camping lies from north (Pamir track), from South (Pamir Valley).

Kisldangi Mountain.

We climbed from the north side of koiytezek pass. One can drive to the mountain. The simplest route is through south ridge. The route is not difficult 2a-2b, snowy glacier. It will take one luminary day. Splendid sight of Eastern Pamir, Shakhdarian ridge is seen from the pick.                  SAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERASAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERASAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERASAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERASAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERASAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERASAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERADSC02589DSC02582DSC02580DSC02578DSC02573DSC02572DSC02571DSC02568

Granite Paradise

The year has already coming to an end, but I have some obligations. I need to tell something. It happened in August. I have been suggested to work as a consultant in the project “Consultancy for a feasibility study for the Pamir mountaineering and climbing school (PMCS) Khorog, Tajikistan”. The general opinion of the project is positive. We could admire communicating with people, and there are a lot of mountains and prospects. Our club did its best to use as much benefit of the trip as we could. First of all we have got acquainted with the fellow travelers from Pamir Alpine Club. We climbed up the high rocks, and I believe it will be the first step to close relations between our clubs and establishing friendship. On the other hand, it’s useful to say some words about annual music festival « The roof of the world», usually held in Khorog at the beginning of August. Three days of music and dances, a great deal of guests from all over the world brought too much impression. One could admire grandeur and magnificence of Pamir Mountains and rocks . Everyone has its own idea of paradise, but rock climbers have quite different opinion. To my mind there are few trees in their paradise, there are only steep rocks and may be beautiful hourlies waiting for them… We have visited such place in Pamir Mountains that can be called “Granite Paradise”. The first rock climbing wall we had climbed is called Tang after the name of small village Tang (narrow) its situated at the distance 37o3748.12”N 71o45’44.32”. The history of discovering this rock climbing wall is as following: American rock climber Bo White came here with rock drill and screws in…? But as for me, I had climbed up those rocks in 1987-88s when I had been working at the construction of Pamir power station. At the result we had seen several routes of the stations provided with necessary equipment for upper protection (insurance) of complexity from 4 to 7+ UIAA, being not very long, 20m each of them. There are granite rocks, convenient cracks for stoppers and kamalots, short trad routes with reliable statins. There is also one light route (50m) fully perforated by screws (4-5 UIAA). It is very pictures and admirable. Besides, there are three routes of 5-6 categories at the distance 37o38’5.27”N 71o45’19.28”E in this area per one hour strolling along the road which were marked by our friend YvoWeidmann who noted the stations and complicated districts perforated by screws as it is shown at the picture. There are also a lot of rubbles for bouldering on the large glade stretching along the massif. The next object is situated in the region of the village Bogev. The distance of this route is one rope length long. But this route is unique on the territory of Tajikistan. It is perforated by screws and its complexity reaches the 8th category in accordance with UIAA. 37o31’32.86”N”C 71o40’2, 31”E. it took us one day to climb half way of route, but it was very steep. We decided to visit it once more. As I have already mentioned, we have plenty of perspectives in future. On the whole there are a lot of rocks along the road and on the banks of the rivers Gunt and Shakhdarya as well as just in the yards of people. We also saw many beautiful hourlies at the music festival Generally speaking we have attended real granite paradise, unforgettable reminiscences! At the end of my description I want to express my gratitude to my project colleagues: to the director (manager) of Pamir Alpine ClubSaidrahmonovSharafand all his fellow travel ers from PAC for their hospitality and friendship to Judith Kloiber for best example of his efficient capacity for work, to TomislavDunderovich for giving us the opportunity to adopt European experience of climbing style.

Anatoly Sharipov, better known as Tolik

0 1Tang 2Tang 3Tang 4Tang 5Tang 6Tang 7Tang 8Tang 9Tang 10Tang 11Tang 12Tang 13Tang 14Tang 16Tang 17 bosch restaurant 18Festival 19Festival 20Festival 21Festival 22Festival 23Festival 24Festival 25Festival 26Festival 27Festival 28Festival 29Festival 30Festival 31Festival 32Festival 33 34 35 36Bogev 37Bogev 38Bogev 39Bogev 40Bogev 41Bogev 42Bogev 43Bogev 44Bogev 45Bogev 46Bogev 47Tang 48Tang 49Tang 50Tang 51Tang 52Tang 53Tang 54Tang 55Tang 56Tang 57Tang 58Tang 59Tang 60Tang 61Tang 62Tang 63Tang 64Tang 65Tang 66Tang 67Tang 69Tang 70

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